The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
In 2018 Lubin added Princesses de Malabar to its Les Classiques collection, entrusting Delphine Thierry to translate a regal, exotic notion into scent. The name evokes the imagined elegance of Malabar's royal women. Thierry blended airy cotton flower with bright bergamot, setting the stage for a luscious floral heart. The perfumer's choice to anchor the composition in soft florals rather than heavy orientals speaks to her intent: capture lightness and femininity without sacrificing depth.
Thierry's approach with Princesses de Malabar reflects a careful balance between softness and structure. The cotton flower and bergamot opening establishes immediate approachability, while the jasmine and magnolia heart provides the romantic depth one expects from a classically-oriented fragrance. The inclusion of peach and ylang-ylang adds contemporary nuance, preventing the composition from feeling dated. The drydown, anchored by iris and sandalwood, grounds the florals in something warm and lasting, while tonka bean and white musk offer a gentle, lingering sweetness that extends the scent's wear without overwhelming the wearer or those around them.
The evolution
The fragrance opens with the clean, almost airy quality of cotton flower paired with bergamot's citrus spark. Within minutes, jasmine and magnolia emerge as the dominant voices, their creamy floral character softened by peach's gentle sweetness. Ylang-ylang adds an exotic dimension, lending a slightly intoxicating warmth that bridges the heart to the base. As time passes, iris takes hold, bringing powdery sophistication that tempers the sweeter elements. Amber and sandalwood ground the composition in warmth while tonka bean whispers a final note of sweet comfort. White musk lingers as a soft, clean finish.
Cultural impact
Princesses de Malabar presents an intriguing dialogue within contemporary perfumery, juxtaposing airy florals with subtle powdery undertones. Its cotton‑flower and bergamot opening captures a fresh, clean quality that feels both modern and nostalgic. The blend of peach, magnolia, jasmine sambac and ylang‑ylang creates a heart that feels opulent yet approachable, balancing sweetness with exotic warmth. The amber‑sandalwood base grounds the composition in richness, while the powdery iris dry‑down adds a refined complexity.
