The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Bortnikoff was founded in Bangkok in 2018 by Dmitry Bortnikoff, a perfumer committed to working with raw natural absolutes rather than synthetic reconstructions. The house operates from a conviction that natural materials deserve to be experienced at full strength, unfiltered for mass-market palatability. This philosophy drives every formulation, with Tabac Dore standing as a direct expression of that intent: a fragrance built around tobacco absolute and oud that requires no dilution or compromise to deliver its full character.
The note choices in Tabac Dore reflect a deliberate approach to layering: vanilla and ambrette at the opening invite close attention, tobacco and cinnamon in the heart reward sustained wear, and the balsamic base of oud, cedarwood, Peru tolu and labdanum creates a foundation that evolves over hours. The inclusion of fig at the heart stage is notable as it bridges the fruity and the aromatic without introducing a false sweetness. Bortnikoff has structured this fragrance so each note stage feels purposeful, with natural materials chosen specifically for their ability to complement rather than compete.
The evolution
Tabac Dore begins with vanilla and ambrette softened by pink pepper, a combination that immediately signals warmth and accessibility without sacrificing complexity. As the fragrance evolves, tobacco rises to the foreground, becoming the undeniable core of the composition. Cinnamon amplifies the spice and warmth while benzoin introduces sweet balsamic depth and fig contributes a quiet fruity undertone. The drydown unfolds as a richly layered base where oud establishes a dark, resinous foundation. Cedarwood adds architectural clarity while Peru and tolu balsams bring warm, honeyed gum textures. Labdanum contributes a slightly earthy, leathery resinous quality and sandalwood delivers the creamy, woody finish that completes the arc.
Cultural impact
Since its 2021 debut, Tabac Doré has been praised for turning tobacco into a luxurious, almost gourmand experience, often compared to the smoky elegance of Tom Ford’s Tobacco Oud. Wearers note its strong sillage and long endurance, making it a favorite for evening gatherings and intimate settings. Its blend of wild oud and sweet vanilla positions it as a bridge between traditional oriental attars and modern gourmand trends.
