The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Fougere No. 1 arrived in 2015, composed by Andrey Oleynikov. Its name places it squarely within the fougère tradition, where aromatic herbs meet fruit, moss, and woods. Here that familiar architecture is sharpened by pineapple, apple, bergamot, and basil. Lavender gives the composition its recognizable herbal cadence, while green notes and galbanum add their own character. The fragrance moves between herbaceous brightness and juicy fruit, then soft earth against polished woods. The result feels less like a period reference than a contemporary reading of the fougère, precise but not severe, with enough sweetness to soften its edges.
The unusual part is the balance between freshness and depth. Pineapple and apple bring immediate brightness, yet oakmoss, costus, patchouli, and vetiver keep the composition grounded from the start. Tonka Bean and caramel add a rounded sweetness beneath the green herbal surface, while galbanum gives the fougère structure its sharper mineral edge. This is not a simple lavender-and-coumarin template. Fruit sits beside moss, spices meet green leaves, and the base carries both dry earth and soft amber. That tension gives the scent its identity: recognizably classic in grammar, unexpectedly vivid in execution.
The evolution
The opening arrives with a cool, clipped energy. Lavender, bergamot, pineapple, apple, basil, and green notes create the impression of biting into fruit beside a bed of fresh stems. As that brightness softens, blackcurrant and geranium bring a darker fruitiness, while coriander and vetiver sharpen the herbal center. Patchouli adds a cool green shadow underneath. The drydown then changes the temperature. Oakmoss and costus settle into damp earth, sandalwood and tonka bean round the composition, and caramel leaves a restrained sweetness beneath the woods. Amber and musk keep the final hours soft and close. Oakmoss is the surprising material, bringing a mossy, faintly sweet character to the composition as it settles into the base.
Cultural impact
Fougere No. 1 places itself within the fougère tradition, a classic language in which aromatic herbs meet fruit, moss, and woods. Here the structure is expanded with pineapple, apple, blackcurrant, and bergamot, while lavender, basil, green notes, and galbanum carry the herbal side. The result is a composition that moves between bright fruit and damp earth, offering plenty to discover from the first spray through the final hours.
The House
MyropolMyropol is a Russian niche perfumery house founded by Andrey Oleynikov, operating from Moscow with a distinct focus on botanical and conceptual fragrance composition. The house has developed a collection of twelve perfumes since at least 2010, ranging from delicate floral studies like Jacinthe and Matthiola to more complex compositions including Rose Vinyle, Ereve, and the 2017 release Pastel. Myropol occupies a particular position within the Russian niche fragrance landscape, offering an alternative to mass-market production through an approach centered on carefully sourced raw materials and considered formulation. The brand's catalog spans both single-note explorations and layered compositions that reference classical perfumery traditions while maintaining a contemporary sensibility. Each release carries the influence of its creator's background and artistic priorities, resulting in a body of work that prioritizes olfactory coherence and material quality over commercial appeal.
The Creator
Andrey Oleynikov / Андрей ОлейниковOleynikov's signature lies in smoke rendered with botanical precision rather than pyrotechnic showmanship. Where many perfumers reach for synthetic smoke molecules to deliver impact, he tends toward natural materials that achieve smoke through indirect means: herbal resins, ag…
