The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Santal Journey arrived in 2021 from Habibi NY, composed by perfumer Marion Costero. The brand had already established a portfolio built around emotional resonance before this release, and Costero's composition pulls from two traditions: violet and orris root from the Western perfumery canon meet oud and sandalwood from the Eastern one. The violet opens cool and slightly green, with a faint peppery lift that keeps it from going powdery too quickly. Orris settles in beneath it, lending that warm, rooty creaminess that orris is known for, like suede left in sunlight. Then the oud arrives, but gently, more as a suggestion than a statement. It reads as dry and woody rather than animalic or medicinal, the way good oud does when it's been used as a structural element rather than a showpiece.
What makes this composition worth attention is the tension between its opening and its base. Cardamom, violet, and pear form a bright, almost breezy top, light enough to feel casual. Then orris root, that most refined of perfumery materials, does something unexpected: it pulls the fragrance toward powder rather than flower, toward skin rather than perfume. By the time sandalwood and oud arrive, they've been prepared for. The wood doesn't have to announce itself. It just settles in, like it was always supposed to be there. The structure is deliberate: a cool, spiced entry that earns the right to a warm, creamy exit.
The evolution
The first hour belongs to violet and cardamom. There's a cool, slightly green quality to the opening, like biting into a crisp pear that's been dusted with something aromatic. The violet isn't shy but it isn't loud either. It does its work without dominating, backed by a cardamom that leans fresh rather than hot. As the first half-hour passes, orris root and cedar emerge. This is where the fragrance changes clothes. The cool, spiced top recedes and something powdery and dry takes its place. Not makeup-powder sweet, but the dry, rooty warmth of iris. Cedar grounds it, keeping the powder from floating away. The transition is smooth. Nothing crashes into anything else. By hour three, the base has settled fully. Sandalwood leads, creamy and soft, with oud underneath adding depth without ever going medicinal or barnyard. The amber rounds everything out. The fragrance sits close to skin from here on out. Moderate sillage, the kind that requires someone to be near you to know you're wearing anything.
Cultural impact
Santal Journey tends to attract wearers who appreciate restraint. It's not a statement piece; it's a signature piece, the kind of scent someone reaches for when they want to feel composed rather than noticed. The violet and orris in the opening give it a quiet floral intro that never pushes forward too aggressively, while the oud and sandalwood in the base provide warmth and depth without veering into heavy territory. On the skin, it wears close, staying within the wearer's personal space rather than projecting across a room.
The House
Habibi NYHabibi NY is a New York-based niche fragrance house founded in 2016 by husband-and-wife team Shakir Ahmed and Tabassum Khan. The brand creates emotionally-driven scents inspired by the power of connection and the art of personal expression. Habibi NY offers a portfolio of fragrances spanning oud, woody, leather, and floral categories, with releases spanning from 2020 through 2024. Notable works include Rose Amor, White Moroccan Leather, Spiced Bergamot & Orris, Penthouse Suede, Rare Woods Elixir, Cashmere Oud, and Palace Grove. The brand retails through its own website and Bloomingdales, with a free sample included in every order. As a founder-led house, Habibi NY positions itself at the intersection of accessible luxury and authentic storytelling, drawing on the founders' personal vision rather than a house perfumer tradition.
The Creator
Marion CosteroMarion’s signature technique centers on building rich, multi‑layered bases before adding bright top notes that catch the eye. She favors natural absolutes such as Brazilian rosewood, Amazonian cacao, and Provençal lavender, pairing them with modern synthetics that extend longe…
