The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
36 Jacob is Spiritum's tribute to its house fragrance, a unisex composition launched in 2025 and built around pepper, oud, sandalwood, and rose. Philippe Paparella-Paris arranged those materials into a layered scent shaped by contrasting textures and temperatures. The opening brings orange, basil, rose, saffron, pink pepper, and black pepper into focus, with orange and aldehydes lending a clean brightness. Then the composition turns inward, layering iris, clove, orange blossom, red fruits, cedarwood, cinnamon, and labdanum before settling into oud, leather, incense, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver, sage, and sandalwood. As the sharper opening gives way, the fragrance moves between peppered brightness, powder, spice, resin, and smooth wood.
The unusual part is the balance inside that darkness. Pepper, orange, and rose keep the composition alert, while orris brings a powdery, almost polished interruption to the center. Clove, labdanum, orange blossom, red fruits, cedarwood, and cinnamon add warmth without flattening the opening. Beneath it all, Vietnamese white oud and leather give the fragrance weight, but patchouli, vetiver, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, sage, sandalwood, cypriol, and balsam fir keep the base in motion.
The evolution
The opening arrives almost at attention. Orange and aldehydes bring a clean flash, while pink pepper, black pepper, saffron, cypress, basil, and rose make the air feel sharpened rather than simply fresh. That brightness loosens as orris settles into the heart, dusting the composition with a soft, elegant powder. Clove, labdanum, orange blossom, red fruits, cedarwood, and cinnamon then lend warmth and a little red fruit sweetness, but the woody structure prevents the transition from becoming soft. In the drydown, leather and Vietnamese white oud take the lead. Incense, cypriol, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver, sage, sandalwood, tonka bean, and balsam fir make the base dense and resinous. The opening gradually recedes, leaving a close woody trace built around leather, oud, sandalwood, spice, incense, and soft sweetness.
Cultural impact
36 Jacob is a unisex fragrance built around a varied note structure. Pepper, orange, rose, and saffron create a bright opening, followed by iris, clove, labdanum, orange blossom, red fruits, cedarwood, and cinnamon. Leather and Vietnamese white oud give the composition depth, while incense, cypriol, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver, sage, sandalwood, tonka bean, and balsam fir extend its resinous and woody character. Pepper, rose, oud, sandalwood, and leather bring a balanced contrast between brightness, powder, spice, depth, and smooth wood.
The House
SpiritumSpiritum Paris occupies a singular position in contemporary niche perfumery, building compositions around intentionality and spiritual exploration. Founded by Jonathan Dufour, the house emerged from a transformative personal journey rather than a traditional fragrance industry background. Based in Paris's 6th arrondissement at 36 Rue Jacob, Spiritum presents each fragrance as a meditation on specific themes, from philosophical concepts to archetypal energies. The house operates outside conventional fragrance families, instead organizing its catalog around numbered series and thematic titles that suggest interior exploration. Dufour's approach treats scent as a vehicle for reflection, with each release carrying symbolic numerology and evocative titles that invite the wearer into a contemplative relationship with fragrance.
The Creator
Philippe Paparella-ParisIn the lab Philippe favors a disciplined structure: he builds a foundation of clean, transparent notes before weaving in richer, textured accords. Citrus and green herbs often anchor his openings, while heart accords may feature rare florals such as tuberose or jasmine absolute.
