Black XS (2018).

Black XS launched in a new bottle, preserving the original 2005 Olivier Cresp and Rosendo Mateu composition. The fragrance opens with lemon and sage, a combination that delivers bright, aromatic energy. At its heart, praline and spice create a warm, indulgent presence that shifts the scent into sweet masculine oriental territory. The overall effect is a fragrance that leans confidently into confectionery and oriental notes. The structure creates an interesting tension between the crisp opening and the richer heart. Praline brings a sweetness that interweaves with the spice, creating depth rather than simple gourmand territory. Sage grounds the initial citrus, keeping it from feeling fleeting.

The structure here is deliberate in its contrast. Calabrian lemon opens sharp, almost aggressive, a statement made in under ten seconds. Sage tempers it just enough to keep it wearable, adding an aromatic dimension that reads as cultivated rather than commercial. But the real story lives in the heart: praline isn't a typical masculine note. It signals indulgence, gourmand sensibility, a fragrance that isn't afraid to be sweet. Paired with black cardamom, a darker, smokier spice than its green cousin, the heart becomes something unexpected. Tolu balsam adds resinous warmth, that soft balsamic quality that makes the fragrance feel like it's coming from skin, not sitting on top of it.

The lemon arrives fast, Calabrian brightness cutting through the room in the first minute. Sage follows, green and clean, keeping the citrus from feeling manufactured. You have perhaps two hours before the citrus fades. That's when the praline takes over. Cinnamon, black cardamom, the soft resin of tolu balsam, it becomes warmer, sweeter, more intimate. Not a dramatic shift. More like the opening chord dissolves and the bass finally kicks in. The drydown settles into patchouli, black amber, and ebony. What you get is sweet and dark simultaneously, patchouli's mineral earthiness anchoring everything while the amber adds warmth without softness. The lemon? Never really left. It's in the background, dissolved into the composition, keeping the sweetness from becoming cloying. Lasts deep into the night on skin. On fabric, expect the full day.

Black XS occupies a space in masculine perfumery where sweet oriental notes take center stage. Citrus keeps it accessible while praline and patchouli deliver substance. This gives the fragrance a particular quality: richness without sacrificing wearability. For those exploring fragrance beyond basic fresh colognes, Black XS offers an accessible entry point into sweeter, more indulgent territory. The scent opens with lemon and sage, creating immediate brightness. Praline and spice form the heart, bringing warmth and confectionery depth that lingers on the skin.