The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
In 2012 Alyssa Ashley approached Luca Maffei with a specific vision: translate the house's musk heritage into a feminine oud composition that could coexist with the brand's classic scents. The brief called for something both approachable and exotic, balancing the accessibility expected of the house against the exoticism that agarwood represents. Maffei delivered by structuring the fragrance in layers, using the plum and citrus top to create immediate appeal before revealing the oud character.
The note philosophy here centers on gradual revelation, using the structured arc of top to heart to base to introduce unfamiliar oud wearers to the material. The plum provides an immediately recognizable sweetness, the tea offers aromatic complexity without intimidation, and the oud appears late enough that the wearer has already developed attachment to the composition. The pairing of myrrh with bergamot and lemon creates unexpected freshness, while rose and heliotrope soften the resinous elements that might otherwise dominate.
The evolution
The fragrance moves from a pleasurable, juicy plum opening with citrus backlighting toward a heart rich in golden-resinous myrrh and velvety rose. Black tea elements emerge as a bridge, their slight bitterness tempering the floral sweetness. The drydown brings the oud forward in a way that feels earned rather than abrupt, supported by the creamy depth of sandalwood and a musky skin-feel. Patchouli leaf enters last, adding a green-earthy counterweight that keeps the base dynamic and prevents the composition from settling into pure heaviness.
Cultural impact
Oud has long been a symbol of luxury in Middle Eastern culture, often reserved for special ceremonies and gifted to honor important guests. Its deep, resinous aroma evokes memories of ancient incense rituals, linking modern wearers to centuries of tradition while also reflecting contemporary tastes that blend heritage with modern elegance.
