The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Vittoriale 2022 opens like a well-worn leather journal, its Italian leather note immediately commanding attention. Kentucky tobacco follows, lending a dark, almost honeyed depth that mingles with the richness of the leather. A white wine accord threads through the composition, bringing a warmth that feels fermented and alive rather than sweet. Cardamom adds a subtle spiced lift, preventing the blend from becoming too heavy. The overall impression is one of bold, animalic richness, a scent that announces itself with confidence and refuses to be ignored. Paolo Terenzi translated this olfactory vision into an eau de parfum format, capturing the essence of old libraries and private studies in a bottle that lingers long after application.
What makes this composition unusual is the pairing of Italian leather with Kentucky tobacco, two leather-tobacco traditions from opposite sides of the Atlantic, brought together under one roof. The white wine accord in the opening is the Terenzi house's signature move: a fermented, slightly vinous quality that gives the top a warmth that isn't sweetness. It reads more like aged spirit than fruit. Combined with cardamom, it lifts the leather-tobacco base just enough to keep the opening from being heavy, even as it announces itself with conviction.
The evolution
The opening announces itself immediately, with Italian leather and Kentucky tobacco taking center stage. Cardamom lends warmth and a subtle spiced quality while the white wine accord provides a fermented lift that prevents the blend from becoming too heavy. Bold and assertive, the opening makes its presence known without apology. The heart phase shifts the character as violet leaf and jasmine sambac emerge through the musk and Singapore patchouli. The violet leaf adds a green, slightly metallic edge while the jasmine sambac brings a creamy, indolic floral quality that balances the green notes. Greek labdanum contributes a balsamic richness that deepens the animalic register, creating a heart that feels both floral and grounded. The drydown belongs to the base notes. Cambodian oud and ambergris take over, establishing a smoky, animalic presence that lingers close to the skin for hours.
Cultural impact
Part of the Anniversari collection, Vittoriale 2022 has built a reputation among niche collectors for its unapologetic animalic character and its unusual leather-tobacco pairing. The fragrance draws wearers who want something that speaks before asking permission, bold enough to turn heads, complex enough to reward attention. Compared to similar leather-tobacco compositions, the addition of ambergris and Cambodian oud in the drydown gives it a signature that lasts well beyond the initial spray.
