The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Notorious XO takes its name from the world of aged spirits, specifically the XO designation reserved for cognacs and brandies that have spent a decade or more in oak. The name itself carries weight, suggesting richness and time spent in the cellar. Perfumers Daniela Marty and LUZI approached the brief by building around a cognac accord that feels immediately recognizable, warm, slightly boozy, touched with the sweetness of oak, then layering it against contrasting materials. Black pepper adds brightness to the opening. Leather and cardamom anchor the heart. The result is a fragrance that embodies the weight of an XO glass without ever feeling heavy-handed. It's named for the spirit, but it wears like the evening that follows.
What makes Notorious XO interesting is its structure, the way the boozy warmth of the opening doesn't disappear but transforms. The cognac becomes part of a larger conversation: it sets the tone, then hands off to a leather and spice heart that feels intentional rather than transitional. The tonka bean and praline in the base keep things warm and gourmand, but the oakmoss and sandalwood prevent it from ever becoming too soft. It's a composition that knows when to pull back, and that restraint is what separates it from simpler interpretations of the theme.
The evolution
The opening arrives bold and warm, with cognac's characteristic richness hitting immediately. There's a slight bite from black pepper, but it's tempered by the sweetness of the spirit accord, almost like the first sip of a good brandy. Aquatic notes provide an unexpected coolness that keeps the top from feeling heavy. The composition gradually moves through its stages, with leather emerging as a dominant presence, supported by cinnamon's warm spice and cardamom's green complexity. The tonka bean introduces a soft, sweet counterpoint that rounds the edges without diluting them. Oakmoss adds an aromatic, slightly earthy quality that grounds the spiciness and gives the heart a refined, almost old-world character. The base reveals amber and vanilla arriving together, wrapping the earlier notes in warmth. Praline adds a gourmand sweetness that lingers close to the skin.
Cultural impact
Notorious XO draws comparison to other spirits-inspired fragrances like Kilian's Angels' Share and Xerjoff's Naxos, sharing their embrace of boozy richness and gourmand warmth. The cognac and vanilla pairing creates a fragrance that feels at home in intimate settings, where its subtle depth can be appreciated up close rather than announced from across the room. What distinguishes this creation is its confident use of darker elements alongside the sweet spirit notes. Leather and oakmoss prevent the composition from becoming purely dessert-like, while the spice heart adds complexity that rewards close attention.
