The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Christian Alori designed Folia in 2023. The fragrance centers on licorice as its aromatic anchor. Used sparingly it can be medicinal, but used with intention it becomes something else entirely, a sweet, aromatic anchor that pulls the rest of the composition together. The maceration process, a hallmark of Granado's approach, smooths the edges over several weeks so that nothing fights for attention. What results is a composition where the ingredients settle into each other rather than competing for space. The result is a fragrance that feels considered rather than chaotic, each layer finding its place in the blend.
Licorice sits at the heart of this composition like a quiet decision rather than a bold one. It is sweet, almost creamy, softened by osmanthus and orange blossom so that it reads more as warm floral than as anise. The osmanthus is worth pausing on. It carries apricot and leather simultaneously, a combination that most perfumers use sparingly because it can tip into abstraction. Here it bridges the sweetness of the heart and the warmth of the base without either side winning.
The evolution
The opening is bright. Bergamot and tangerine arrive together, citrus-sharp but already softened by the nutmeg, which adds a warm peppery note that keeps the top from reading as sharp or aquatic. Then the licorice steps in. Sweet and aromatic, almost anise-adjacent, softened immediately by orange blossom's creamy floral note. Osmanthus provides a bridge of apricot and subtle leather that pulls the heart into something cohesive. Three hours in, the vanilla arrives. It doesn't storm the composition, it settles underneath everything, adding warmth and extending the presence of the licorice rather than replacing it. Sandalwood does similar work, adding a creaminess that rounds out what could have become too sweet. The drydown is powdery, warm, and intimate. Close to the skin.
Cultural impact
Folia uses licorice as a heart note rather than an accent. The maceration process and high proportion of natural ingredients place it in a category of thoughtful compositions that reward close attention. The fragrance invites engagement from the wearer, revealing its layers over time rather than presenting everything at once. It is the kind of scent that reveals more the longer you wear it.
