The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Leather Trance landed in 2021 as part of Birkholz's Black Collection, a line from the Berlin house. Nicolas Bonneville composed it with the idea of travel at its center, evoking the weight and anticipation of departures yet to come. The fragrance captures that suspended moment when anticipation builds in the chest, when the unfamiliar feels electric, and the place you're about to leave has already begun to blur into something recalled rather than lived. There's a tension baked into the composition between departure and return, between what gets packed and what gets left behind, and the scent tries to bottle that quiet thrill of motion about to begin.
What makes this composition unusual is how it handles the leather itself. Most leather fragrances open with the animalic material front and center, but Bonneville introduces raspberry and peach first, letting the fruit establish a sweetness that the leather then interrupts rather than supports. Cumin brings the savory heat that bridges both worlds, while patchouli grounds the heart with its earthy, slightly bitter weight. The base turns devotional: frankincense and myrrh, two resins with centuries of ritual use, create a smoky, almost sacred atmosphere that elevates the composition beyond straightforward spiced leather.
The evolution
The opening is unmistakably fruit. Peach and raspberry arrive bright, almost jammy, with a sweetness that feels indulgent and slightly reckless. As the minutes pass, the fruit begins to recede, and the leather steps forward, not as a sharp saddle-leather punch but as something softer, worn and supple. Cumin surfaces here, dry and warm, threading through the leather and patchouli in a way that keeps the composition grounded. Gradually the resins take over. Frankincense brings a clean, incense-like smoke, and myrrh deepens it into something ancient and meditative. The musk underneath stays subtle, a skin-warm hum that keeps everything anchored to the body. On fabric the next morning, the leather and myrrh dominate, warm and slightly smoky, a trace of sweetness still clinging to the threads.
Cultural impact
Within the niche fragrance community, Leather Trance has drawn attention for its willingness to place bright fruit notes at the opening of a leather composition, a pairing that runs counter to expectations. The contrast between jammy raspberry and peach against smoky leather and incense gives it an unexpected sweetness up top that catches wearers off guard. Fragrantica community votes place it firmly in cooler-weather territory, with strong showings for fall and winter wear.
The House
BirkholzBirkholz Perfume Manufacture is a Berlin-based independent fragrance house founded in 2017 by Philip Birkholz. The company operates as a family business, with all production processes taking place in their Berlin manufactory. Philip Birkholz serves as both CEO and creative director, responsible for all fragrance creations. The house specializes in handmade niche perfumes that blend traditional perfumery with contemporary innovation. Each fragrance is developed from personal memories and special moments that Birkholz associates with specific scent concepts, resulting in compositions that carry individual narratives rather than following market trends. The brand has expanded internationally, with distribution through partners such as S7M Groupe, which introduced Birkholz to Middle Eastern markets.
The Creator
Nicolas BonnevilleNicolas is passionate about natural raw materials, a devotion that has been inherent to him since childhood. He travels the world to follow harvests: India for jasmine sambac, Italy for mandarin and bergamot, Florence for iris, Tunisia for orange blossom.













































