The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Ubermensch arrived as part of Robbie VanGogh's 2011 lineup, a year that saw multiple releases from the brand. Rob Denton built a fragrance that refuses softness: star anise and black pepper at the entrance, tobacco and vermouth in the negotiation, leather and cassia at the close. The name carries philosophical weight, and the composition leans into it without apology. Star anise opens with a licorice-sweet, almost medicinal snap that doesn't bother introducing itself politely. Black pepper lands right beside it, sharp and dry, refusing the rounded spice feel of cinnamon or cardamom. The combination reads cold at first, bracing rather than warming, and sets up an opening that feels closer to biting into something than brushing past it.
What makes the structure unusual is the vermouth note sitting in the heart alongside tobacco and vanilla. Vermouth is a fortified wine, bitter and herbal, and it brings a dry, almost cocktail-bar sharpness to a composition that could have gone purely sweet-spicy. That choice, plus the cassia (a hotter, more aggressive cousin of cinnamon) in the base, keeps the heart from tipping into easy sweetness. The vermouth and the cassia work in conversation, both refusing to let the tobacco and vanilla settle into anything familiar.
The evolution
The opening is the noisiest part, and for some wearers the most divisive. Star anise leads, sweet and licorice-edged, followed quickly by lavender and a sharp crack of black pepper that reads almost cold. The citrus contribution is brief, a fleeting brightness that adds lift before stepping aside. The composition then pivots toward the heart, where tobacco, palmarosa, and vanilla arrive as a warmer, slightly sweet-smoky trio. The vermouth weaves through this trio with its bitter, herbal undertone, keeping the sweetness in check and adding a bittersweet complexity that prevents the heart from sliding into pure gourmand territory. Palmarosa sits beneath the tobacco with a grassy, slightly rosy edge that gives the heart a subtle floral lift without ever announcing itself outright.
Cultural impact
Ubermensch circulates among wearers who engage with conceptual fragrance, people who appreciate unusual note combinations and are willing to sit with a composition that doesn't announce its accessibility right away. The fragrance gets discussed for its willingness to keep leather and tobacco dry rather than sweet, for the way vermouth threads through the heart, and for the warm, almost ember-like cassia that holds at the base. Bottles surface occasionally through resale channels, and the discontinued production run gives finding one a small scavenger-hunt quality.
