The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
In 2015, Nina Ricci released L'Écrin des Colombes. The name translates to 'The Jewel Box of the Doves,' a reference to the Lalique crystal flacon it comes in. Twin doves rest atop the stopper, a graceful motif that distinguishes this edition. The crystal flacon carries a certain weight and presence that befits a limited production piece. Seventy-four pieces were made, each presented as a singular object for the collector's consideration. The fragrance inside reflects the house's long tradition of romantic femininity, rendered in a warm and powdery register that connects it to the original L'Air du Temps. Those familiar with the house's signature style will recognize the approach: lush florals softened by gentle warmth, an elegance that eschews trend for enduring appeal.
The note pyramid is ambitious for an EDT, six top notes, ten heart notes, nine base notes. But Fabron avoids the trap of making it feel cluttered. The key structural choice: carnation appears in both top and heart, threading through the composition like a red thread. This is uncommon, most pyramids keep a material in one place. Here it bridges the opening warmth into the floral heart, creating unusual continuity across phases. The yellow florals, ylang-ylang and gardenia, bring a rich, almost waxy warmth that reads as opulent rather than overwhelming.
The evolution
The opening announces with a burst of bergamot and neroli, immediately bright and lifted. Peach and rose soften the initial impression, adding roundness to the citrus brightness. The carnation is the star, that warm, slightly spicy clove-like quality arriving within minutes and never fully leaving. As the heart opens, yellow florals emerge, ylang-ylang and gardenia unfurling into their full, rich character. Jasmine and rose deepen the floral heart. The clove note from carnation weaves through the composition, keeping the florals from becoming heavy. The base arrives: sandalwood and benzoin create a creamy, slightly honeyed warmth that wraps around the fading florals. Moss and vetiver add an earthy, forest-floor quality that grounds everything. Iris lends powder. Amber and cedar settle into a warm, soft conclusion that stays intimate, close to the skin rather than projecting outward.
Cultural impact
L'Écrin des Colombes occupies a particular position: it's a collector's piece worn by people who already love L'Air du Temps. The Lalique crystal flacon carries significant recognition in the fragrance world. Its powdery, warm-yellow-floral character distinguishes it from many contemporary releases, appealing to those who value classic perfumery. The combination of the recognizable crystal flacon and the house's signature style creates an object that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts alike, those who appreciate the enduring qualities of romantic femininity in fragrance form.
The House
Nina RicciNina Ricci is a Parisian fashion house founded in 1932 by Italian-born designer Maria "Nina" Ricci and her son Robert Ricci. The house began as a couture salon on Rue Haussmann, quickly establishing a reputation for refined, feminine gowns with romantic sensibility. Robert established an in-house perfume division in 1941, though the first fragrance would not arrive until 1946. That inaugural scent, Coeur Joie, marked the beginning of a partnership with Lalique that would define the house's olfactory identity. The house introduced its most celebrated fragrance, L'Air du Temps, in 1948, a scent that remains in production decades later. Puig acquired Nina Ricci in 1998, bringing the house under the same ownership that manages Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier. Today, the fragrance collection spans from timeless classics to contemporary offerings like the Nina line, maintaining the house's commitment to feminine elegance.
The Creator
Francis FabronFabron favors a disciplined approach that begins with a single anchor note, often a classic floral or a refined woody. He builds around that anchor with transparent accords, preferring natural extracts such as jasmine, rose, and sandalwood, complemented by carefully calibrated…
