The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Penanggal launched in 2025 and belongs to Grimoire Parfums' Ex Fabularum collection. Trung Vu, the perfumer, brand owner, and perfume maker, built the fragrance around calamansi, papaya, elemi, mandarin, pomelo, coriander seed, and ginger. The listed notes and accords give the composition a vivid character: calamansi, mandarin, and pomelo contribute bright citrus, while papaya adds a soft, juicy dimension. Coriander seed lends a green, peppery accent, ginger brings aromatic warmth, and elemi adds a resinous lift. Ylang-ylang, frangipani, broom, and magnolia shape the floral center, while sandalwood, oakmoss, clove, musk, and amber create a warm, woody and mossy base.
What makes Penanggal interesting is the friction inside its note structure. Calamansi, mandarin, pomelo, and papaya bring brightness and juicy warmth, while coriander seed and ginger introduce a green, peppery edge. Elemi adds resinous lift before ylang-ylang, frangipani, broom, and magnolia turn the center full and floral. Sandalwood, oakmoss, clove, musk, and amber then ground that fruit with moss, spice, and warmth. As the fragrance develops, the initial fruit and citrus gradually give way to a creamier floral heart, with coriander and elemi preserving green and resinous accents.
The evolution
Citrus, papaya, elemi, and ginger give Penanggal a glossy tropical brightness crossed with aromatic heat. Fruit and citrus gradually lose their sharpness as ylang-ylang, frangipani, broom, and magnolia bring a creamier floral pulse. That sweetness never becomes syrupy, because coriander keeps a green thread running through it and elemi holds a resinous edge. In the drydown, sandalwood and oakmoss pull the composition downward and closer to the skin, while clove adds a small spark of warmth. Amber and musk soften the finish, leaving a smooth, lightly spiced trail. As the bright fruit recedes, the fragrance becomes more floral, mossy, and woody, balancing sweet warmth with green spice and resinous depth. Its evolution gives the composition a layered character that can shift from vivid and aromatic to close, soft, and quietly warm.
Cultural impact
Penanggal belongs to Grimoire Parfums' Ex Fabularum collection. Its green-spicy tropical profile brings together calamansi, papaya, mandarin, pomelo, coriander seed, ginger, and elemi before settling into a floral heart of ylang-ylang, frangipani, broom, and magnolia. Sandalwood, oakmoss, clove, musk, and amber give the composition a warm, textured base. The result is a polished exploration for anyone drawn to vivid fruit, aromatic spice, creamy florals, mossy woods, and resinous warmth, with enough contrast to keep each stage of the fragrance engaging.
The House
Grimoire ParfumsGrimoire Parfums is an independent Australian fragrance house founded by self-taught perfumer Trung Vu, who also goes by the name Troy. The brand takes its name from the French word for a spell book, reflecting its dedication to crafting scents inspired by folklore, mythology, and cultural narratives from around the world. Vu operates the house as both perfumer and creative director, bringing a collector's sensibility to fragrance creation. Each release draws from literary sources, historical figures, and mythological traditions, resulting in perfumes that function as olfactory storytelling. The house launched its initial collection in 2025, introducing five distinct fragrances named after creatures and figures from global folklore. All formulations maintain IFRA compliance, with materials sourced from the French supplier Robertet.
The Creator
Trung VuTrung Vu gravitates toward atmospheric compositions that pull the wearer somewhere unexpected. His work favors depth over accessibility, building scents that reveal themselves slowly and reward attention.
