Burgundy Oud

What makes the structure unusual is the blackcurrant bud absolute in the top notes. This is not a typical fragrance ingredient, offering a green, waxy tartness that reads almost as herbal rather than sweet. It brings an unexpected brightness that sets a different tone from more conventional fruity openings. Paired with Guatemalan cardamom and bergamot, the opening creates a cool-fruit brightness that sits in direct contrast to the oud leather waiting beneath the surface.

The evolution

The perfumer began with French blackcurrant bud absolute, a less common choice that delivers a tart, almost wine-like brightness absent from typical fruit notes. Guatemalan cardamom adds warmth without sweetness, a deliberate counterweight to keep the opening grounded. Bergamot zest arrives briefly, slicing through before the heart develops. The journey moves from that vibrant, almost gastronomic opening through a magnolia and davana transition, finally arriving at the oud-leather base where amyris softens what could have been an overly sharp resinous edge. The blackcurrant bud continues to influence the mid-palate, its tartness gradually mellowing into something rounder as the fragrance develops. By the time the oud reveals itself fully, there's a layered complexity that rewards patience, each phase offering something distinct before settling into that deep, satisfying finish.