The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Shiseido's More made its debut in 1971, with a notable relaunch following in 1980. The fragrance centers on aldehydes, that silvery, almost effervescent material known for its luminous, almost metallic shimmer. These aldehydes anchor the composition, giving the scent its distinctive sparkle and lift. A warm amber base provides depth and roundness, while the florals arrive on their own schedule, unfurling gradually rather than announcing themselves immediately. The interplay between the bright, lifted aldehydes and the honeyed warmth of the amber creates a tension that holds the fragrance together. There's a quiet confidence in how the notes take their time, revealing themselves in layers rather than all at once.
What makes More structurally interesting is how the aldehydes function as a lens rather than a star. They don't dominate, they amplify. The citrus that opens becomes sharper, more crystalline. The florals that follow become creamier, more present. Without aldehydes, jasmine and ylang-ylang are pleasant. With them, the same jasmine and ylang-ylang feel luminous. The powdery quality in the drydown, iris, musk, benzoin, keeps that aldehydic brightness alive even as the composition settles into warmth. It's a threading technique: the opening never fully disappears, it just changes clothes.
The evolution
The aldehydic opening arrives first, with neroli and tarragon alongside bergamot and mandarin creating a bright, sparkling introduction. There's something slightly metallic in the lift, a silvery quality that catches the light before softening. As this phase settles, the florals begin to make their entrance: jasmine and ylang-ylang arrive first, their heady sweetness tempered by the lingering aldehydes, then the quieter lilacs and lilies follow, gentler in their approach. The aldehydes don't disappear entirely, they linger underneath, keeping the heart lifted and preventing the florals from becoming too heavy or dense. By the time the base begins to emerge, benzoin and vanilla provide warmth and sweetness, while cedar adds a touch of structure and dryness. Musk keeps everything intimate, close to the skin rather than projecting outward.
Cultural impact
More occupies a particular niche among aldehydic florals, offering a composition that balances classic structure with a lighter touch. The aldehydic-citrus opening provides immediate brightness, a sparkling quality that feels both timeless and contemporary, while the powdery drydown speaks to a tradition of feminine elegance without excess weight. The fragrance maintains a presence that stays close to the skin, intimate rather than announced, appealing to those who appreciate the heritage of aldehydic compositions but prefer something more restrained than their bolder counterparts.
