The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Equistem was launched in 2011 by Chris Bartlett, the perfumer behind its composition. The name points to Equisetum, the Latin name for horsetail, and its botanical reference fits a fragrance built around green, fresh, spicy, aromatic and citrus accords. Bergamot, mint, lavender, and cucumber establish the brisk opening, while hyacinth, geranium, French orange flower, and petitgrain bring a more cultivated floral layer. The result is a considered composition that turns familiar notes of greenery, flowers, citrus and spice into something quietly distinctive, with freshness supported by a deeper woody foundation.
The interesting part is the handoff between freshness and depth. Mint, lavender, and cucumber create an immediately airy, green impression, but the heart adds hyacinth, geranium, French orange flower, and petitgrain, building a floral foundation around the opening. Tobacco, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, and ambergris then pull it toward a warm, powdery woody base. As the bright citrus and green notes soften, the fragrance gains body, moving between neat and earthy with a composed, gently musky finish that feels more substantial than fleeting.
The evolution
The opening is the cleanest part of Equistem: bergamot, mint, lavender, and cucumber arrive like a cool, green breeze. The sharpness softens as hyacinth, geranium, French orange flower, and petitgrain take over, turning the composition more floral, aromatic, and polished. Then the base steps in. Tobacco introduces a dry, leathery warmth, oakmoss adds an earthy edge, and vanilla settles into the woods with a soft sweetness. Sandalwood and ambergris keep the drydown close and smooth, with a powdery feel that can make the fragrance seem even quieter than its fresh beginning. By the end, it no longer reads as a simple green scent. It has become woody, musky, and lightly tobacco-stained, leaving a composed trail with above-average longevity.
Cultural impact
Equistem reflects a quietly individual approach to perfumery. Its botanical naming pairs a classical reference with a fresh aromatic profile, while the composition balances greenery, tobacco, moss, and powdery woods with considerable restraint. Bergamot, mint, lavender, and cucumber give the scent an invigorating start; hyacinth, geranium, French orange flower, and petitgrain introduce a cultivated floral heart. Tobacco, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, and ambergris then lend warmth, earth, softness and depth, making Equistem a rewarding fragrance to explore from its fresh opening through its quieter woody drydown.
The House
Pell Wall PerfumesPell Wall Perfumes is a Shropshire-based fragrance house founded by perfumer Chris Bartlett. It combines ready-made fine fragrances with bespoke fragrance creation, consultation, and supplies for home perfumers. Its catalogue spans scents for men, women, and the home, including Equistem, Minted Mornings, Green Carnation, Jacinth, and 1953 Pour Homme. The business also develops coordinated fragrance products and offers practical guidance for anyone working with perfume materials.
The Creator
Chris BartlettBartlett favored natural materials and compositions that showcased ingredient quality over molecular novelty. His leather woody signature appeared throughout his work, from the animalic depths of Zoologist Beaver to the mineral-dusted warmth of Pell Wall scents.
