Lolita Lempicka Mon Premier Parfum.

Mon Premier Parfum arrived in 2017, twenty years after Lolita Lempicka first planted its flag with Annick Menardo's licorice-violet-anise signature. Menardo returned to the house she helped build, given a new bottle and a new face in Thylane Blondeau. The composition carries the same intense licorice accord at its center, surrounded by cherry and star anise, but the execution is contemporary, warmer in the drydown, softer in its edges. The licorice opens with an herbal depth that moves beyond simple confection, pulling the cherry into something more complex than sweetness alone. Star anise provides an aromatic brightness that cuts through the heavier notes without overpowering them, giving the whole structure an unexpected lift.

The star anise and licorice open with something almost herbal, close to black licorice candy but with more nuance. That sharpness doesn't fight the cherry so much as frame it. Then the violet arrives, powdery and old-fashioned in a way that could feel dated if the surrounding notes weren't holding it up. As the composition develops, the cherry becomes more prominent, its fruity sweetness deepening slightly under the influence of the anise, creating a middle ground that feels both playful and grounded.

The opening doesn't ease in. Star anise announces itself immediately, sharp, almost medicinal, the kind of brightness that hits the back of the throat before it hits the nose. Cherry arrives within seconds, softening the anise just enough to keep it from feeling like medicine. Within ten minutes, the licorice takes over. Not the candy, the real thing, herbal and deep, and suddenly the whole composition shifts from bright to warm. The violet emerges as the top notes settle, taking its time, almost shy next to the intensity underneath. By the time you reach the second hour, the vanilla and praline are running the show. The anise has faded. The licorice is still there, but it's humming now, underneath the sweetness, keeping everything honest. The drydown stays close to skin, intimate, warm, the kind of scent someone notices when they hug you.

Mon Premier Parfum arrived twenty years after Lolita Lempicka established the house's signature accord, bringing Annick Menardo back to complete what she started. The composition returns to the licorice-violet-anise tension that made the 1997 debut so distinctive, offering that particular balance of savory and sweet to a contemporary audience. There's an openness to the structure that invites wearers to experience the signature accord without requiring prior knowledge of the house, making the fragrance approachable while still carrying the unmistakable character of the brand.