The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Miyama arrived in 2022 under the Frater name, composed by Jamie Frater. The brand traces back to New Zealand, where Frater built the label and shaped its identity as an independent house. Miyama reads as a long lasting composition built around precious woods, incense, and leather, with a Parma violet and osmanthus heart threaded through the center. The saffron and nutmeg sharpen the top, and the leather accord gives the base its weight. The name itself, a Japanese word meaning deep mountain, signals the mood he was reaching for: something dense, forested, and quietly remote. There's a stillness to the scent that matches the name, the kind of composition that asks for cool air and long sleeves rather than warm nights and crowds.
Miyama takes a distinctive route through the leather territory. The Parma violet and osmanthus at the center give it a powdery, almost confectionary sweetness, the kind of dusty floral that recalls iris-based compositions. Saffron and nutmeg sharpen the edges, while a real leather accord anchors the composition with warmth and grain rather than a smoky suggestion of weight. The result is a scent that reads both traditional and slightly off-kilter, closer to a floral-leather hybrid than a straightforward dark-fragrance composition.
The evolution
The opening is the loudest part of Miyama. Bergamot and saffron arrive bright and slightly metallic, like polished brass catching light, while the osmanthus adds a ripe, almost apricot-like fruitiness underneath. The saffron stays assertive, sitting on top of the leather like a glaze and lending the composition a warm, almost waxy spice. As the opening softens, the Parma violet makes its entrance, soft and powdery, dusting the smoke and leather with something almost cosmetic. This is where Miyama surprises you: a composition centered on weight and density suddenly smelling of vintage face powder, in the best way. The heart phase carries for hours, the violet slowly fading as the leather deepens and the bourbon geranium adds a green, slightly herbal edge. Geranium does quiet work here, threading a leafy sharpness through the floral that keeps the sweetness honest.
Cultural impact
Miyama carries an old-school character that comes through clearly in the Parma violet and saffron combination, giving it a dusty, classical feel rather than a bright or synthetic one. The New Zealand origin places it geographically apart from the European centers of independent perfumery, and the composition itself feels shaped by that distance: dense, deliberate, and unconcerned with fitting into any established category. The violet-and-leather pairing is unusual enough to register immediately, and the way the saffron threads through both the top and the heart keeps the whole thing coherent.
The House
FraterFrater Perfumes is a New Zealand‑based fragrance house that releases limited‑edition scents crafted by its founder, Jamie Frater. The brand focuses on richly layered compositions that often reference classic perfume ingredients while exploring contemporary twists. Since its first releases in 2022, Frater has built a catalogue that includes Bedlam, Palatine, Porthos, Cherry Pop, Infanta, Feu D'Ambre, Menagerie, Mimosa, Dynasty and Vetiver. Each bottle arrives from Wellington with a clear emphasis on material integrity and a personal narrative that reflects Frater’s self‑taught approach to scent creation.
The Creator
Jamie FraterJamie favors a minimalist palette, often building around a single dominant accord before layering supporting notes. He prefers natural absolutes such as neroli, sandalwood, and New Zealand manuka honey, pairing them with synthetics that reinforce texture without overwhelming t…
