The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Ex Nihilo was founded in Paris in 2013 by three friends who refused to accept the constraints of traditional perfume houses. The name means 'out of nothing' in Latin, and the philosophy is literal: complete creative freedom, no budget limits, no commercial hedging. Gaël Montero, the house's perfumer, approached Chandigarh Express with the same ambition that defined the city itself. Built on the Sivalik foothills of the Himalayas in the mid-1950s, Chandigarh was an attempt to create a modernist utopia in a tropical jungle. The fragrance captures that tension between geometric precision and organic chaos.
The note selection reflects a deliberate conversation between brightness and darkness. Cardamom and Mandarin Orange evoke the spice and color of Indian markets, while Leathery Notes and Balsam Fir reference the city's modernist architecture, all clean lines and raw materials. The inclusion of Mahonial, a synthetic woody-floral molecule, speaks to the brand's willingness to use modern chemistry alongside natural materials. Davana, a challenging herb with a complex aroma, adds intellectual depth that rewards repeated wearing. The drydown's Tonka Bean and Benzoin create warmth without heaviness, allowing the leather to remain present but softened. Each note has a purpose; nothing is decorative.
The evolution
The opening begins with Cardamom and Mandarin Orange, a partnership that immediately signals intent. Bergamot tempers the citrus, preventing it from becoming medicinal. Within fifteen minutes, the heart materializes: Leathery Notes rise first, carrying a warm, almost suede-like texture. Balsam Fir follows, its resinous quality introducing a cool, green contrast. Jasmine and Mahonial soften the leather without sweetening it, and Davana adds an herbal, slightly bitter edge that keeps the heart grounded. By the fourth hour, the drydown takes over. Tonka Bean and Benzoin provide the warmth, their sweet balsamic character wrapping around the remaining leather. Patchouli and Vetiver complete the picture with earthy depth, ensuring the fragrance settles close to the skin but persists for hours.
Cultural impact
Chandigarh Express has developed a loyal following since its 2024 launch, with wearers consistently praising the smoky leather-tobacco drydown as the defining element. Community ratings reflect strong performance across longevity and sillage, the 8-10 hour duration and substantial projection match the experience most people report. The fragrance occupies a specific space: modern enough to feel contemporary, rooted enough in leather and spice to feel substantial. Compared to peers like Tom Ford Ombré Leather and Atkinsons Born for Eternity, Chandigarh Express distinguishes itself through its aromatic opening and more pronounced smoky drydown.
