The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
A Moment in Manhattan arrived in 2020 from Anka Kuş Parfüm, composed by Al Manlé. The composition leans into a refusal of easy reading. The name itself evokes a specific suspended time, the held breath between waking hours and evening plans, when the city's energy shifts and the day hasn't yet committed to what it will become. Al Manlé's composition captures that in-between state with an unlikely marriage of blueberry, saffron, bitter orange, and castoreum. Sweet, yes. But the sweetness has a pulse. The animalic undertow grounds what could have been a simple fruity composition and gives it weight. The blueberry reads less like a kitchen ingredient and more like something encountered in passing on a Manhattan street corner in winter, slightly bruised, carrying the cold with it.
What makes this composition unusual is the deliberate placement of blueberry alongside saffron and bitter orange at the top, with castoreum anchoring the base. Here, the fruit is treated as a serious aromatic material, given the same structural weight as the saffron and lavender that surround it. The castoreum in the base is the detail that separates this from sweeter interpretations of similar notes. It adds a leathery, almost bodily warmth that keeps the sweetness honest. That animalic pulse runs underneath everything, a constant reminder that this isn't confectionery dressed up as perfume.
The evolution
The first fifteen minutes belong to bitter orange and a clean musk, bright and almost sharp, like city air before the coffee kicks in. Blueberry arrives quickly, not jammy or synthetic but cooked, slightly tart, threaded through with saffron's leathery warmth. Lavender and vanilla soften the edges without smoothing them out completely, and you can sense the castoreum already working beneath, even if it hasn't fully announced itself. The heart holds for several hours, a slow conversation between fruit and spice that never fully resolves. Around the four-hour mark, the castoreum begins to surface. This is the turn. The sweetness recedes and something warmer, more skin-like, takes over. Labdanum and benzoin add resinous depth while cinnamon and sandalwood settle underneath, the drydown gradually tightening into something quieter and more concentrated.
Cultural impact
A Moment in Manhattan draws comparisons to L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré from wearers who note its similar sweet-spicy profile, but the blueberry-and-castoreum combination marks it as distinctly its own creature. The fragrance appeals to wearers who want sweetness with something rougher underneath, who find standard gourmand compositions too polite. The animalic base adds an edge that separates it from anything that reads as straightforwardly fruity, and the interplay of saffron with the bitter orange keeps the opening from ever settling into predictability.
The House
Anka Kuş ParfümAnka Kuş Parfüm is an independent perfume house founded in 2018 by the perfumer Ali Erkekli. Operating from Melbourne, the brand describes itself as eclectic, drawing on both the art of perfumery and design. With a catalog spanning over a dozen fragrances, the house has developed a reputation for compositions that resist easy categorization, blending aromatic materials in ways that reward sustained attention. Notable releases include Betwixt and Between Extrait (2020), This Ember (2021), Ambre Destan (2021), Vétivérité (2023), and The Long Red Cloud (2024). The brand maintains a presence across Instagram and fragrance platforms, offering its collection to an audience interested in conceptual, design-forward perfumery.
The Creator
Al ManléWithout documented fragrance releases from Al Manlé in current databases, any discussion of stylistic signatures remains necessarily speculative. However, the cultural associations embedded in the perfumer's name suggest potential affinities with traditions that have shaped gl…
