The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Au Masculin arrived in 2000, a collaboration between Lolita Lempicka, a playful, story-driven house, and nose Annick Menardo. The French label, born in 1983 and famed for fairy tale gourmand twists, wanted a masculine echo of its iconic Lilicord signature. Menardo answered with a blend that flipped the script, using star anise as the primary note rather than the licorice that defined the original. Her approach was to capture the spirit of the house while crafting something unmistakably masculine, relying on spirituous materials and aromatic herbs to do so.
The note structure reflects a deliberate inversion of the house's signature approach. Where Lilicord centered on sweet, edible notes, Au Masculin uses star anise and absinthe to establish an aromatic foundation before introducing warmth through rum. The drydown with vanilla and tonka bean grounds the composition, creating a sweet anchor that feels both modern and classic. Pairing wise, the spirit-forward opening pairs well with smoky scents, while the vanilla-rich base complements warmer, spicier fragrances. It is a fragrance built for those who appreciate complexity and don't mind standing out.
The evolution
The fragrance opens with star anise, absinthe, and ivy, creating an aromatic burst that feels immediate and attention-grabbing. Within minutes, rum emerges as the dominant heart note, bringing warmth and a slightly sweet edge. Violet and almond round out the middle phase, adding complexity and softening the spirit-forward opening. The drydown takes over gradually, with vanilla and tonka bean creating a creamy, warm base that lingers. Cedarwood and labdanum provide final structure, ensuring the fragrance settles into something lasting and memorable.
Cultural impact
Since its 2000 debut, Au Masculin has become a cult favorite among fans of gourmand‑oriental blends. Its bold anise‑absinthe opening divides opinion, yet those who embrace it often cite the rum‑sweet heart as a signature that sets it apart from typical vanilla‑heavy men’s scents. It’s frequently mentioned alongside Lempicka Homme as the brand’s masculine counterpart, earning a steady following in niche circles.
