The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Alberto Morillas conceived Or de Calambac as an avant-garde oud freed from its historical heritage, traveling to the borders of a new continent and immersing itself in a territory it has never explored before. Rather than the sharp, resinous conventions of traditional oud, Morillas imagined an epicurean interpretation, one colored by the spice trade routes and confectionery traditions of South America. Warm spices like cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, and pepper weave through gourmet notes of cocoa, tonka bean, and hazelnut, anchored by the woody depth of vetiver and guaiac wood. The result is oud reimagined as something seductive and sophisticated, not austere.
What makes Or de Calambac distinctive is the role oud plays in the composition. Here, oud isn't a background presence supporting the base, it commands the fragrance while warm spices and confection notes reshape it into something almost edible. The tension sits between oud's inherent darkness and the bright sweetness of cacao and tonka bean. These opposing forces don't fight. They deepen each other, producing something more nuanced than either direction alone would yield. For someone who finds oud intimidating, this approachability might be the entry point they didn't know they needed.
The evolution
The opening arrives with an unexpected sharpness, star anise and pink pepper carry a clean, almost medicinal brightness that cuts before it warms. Then the heart takes over. Cacao and hazelnut arrive with juniper berries adding a green bitterness beneath the sweetness of tonka and cinnamon, creating something richer than a typical dessert but still distinctly edible. The drydown is where oud finally speaks. Deep, almost chocolatey itself, wrapped in myrrh and labdanum for a dry, resinous warmth that lingers close to the skin. Guaiac wood and vetiver ground everything in smoke and earth. The next morning, cypress and vetiver remain on fabric, a quiet, green trace.
Cultural impact
Or de Calambac represents Chopard's take on the modern oriental, bridging traditional oud with contemporary sensibility through chocolate and spice. The moderate sillage makes it suited for close encounters rather than large rooms. Worn best in cooler seasons and evening settings, its warmth and seductiveness suit intimate gatherings and special occasions. For those familiar with oud, this offers something different from the typical resinous or medicinal interpretations.
