The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Cherry Leather exists because Bianco Profumo doesn't believe in holding back. The 2024 release is the work of Christine Hassan and Carlos Huber. The opening is the whole brief: bold, confrontational, a little overwhelming. Then the cherry and almond arrive and soften everything. The suede does the real talking. That's the move here, an approach that speaks for itself, confident and unapologetic.
What makes Cherry Leather interesting is the structural arc. The fennel and star anise opening is intentionally difficult, forcing you to wait for the reward. The cherry in the heart isn't the bright, candied kind. It's darker, more bitter, threaded with almond. That combination is what separates this from a standard fruit-leather pairing. The ambrette seed acts as a bridge, adding a subtle musky, slightly nutty quality that makes the transition to the base feel smooth and earned. By the time the suede arrives in the base, it doesn't feel like a reveal, it feels like coming home.
The evolution
The opening hits hard. Fennel and star anise arrive simultaneously, making the first minutes feel almost medicinal, a green, black-licorice intensity that catches you off guard. The black pepper and saffron cut through, adding warmth without sweetness. This is not a gentle introduction. The cherry appears in the heart phase, but it's not the cherry you'd expect. Darker. Drier. It's bitter almond that defines this phase more than the fruit itself. The ambrette seed adds a faint nuttiness that feels almost powdery. The leather hasn't fully arrived yet, but something soft is taking shape. As the fragrance develops, the suede emerges. Not aggressive leather, worn suede, close to the skin. Pine tar and guaiac wood add a faint smoky edge, industrial without being harsh. Amber and oak keep the base warm. Moss grounds it. Musk holds everything close.
Cultural impact
Leather has held a symbolic place in perfumery, a note that carries weight and history. The combination of leather with bold spices like saffron and star anise speaks to a certain audacity in fragrance composition. Fennel, often associated with Mediterranean culinary traditions, adds a green, anise-like dimension that grounds the composition in herbal depth. This fragrance sits at an interesting intersection, where leather signals something more complex than power, reaching into territory that feels both grounded and unexpected.
