Six Scents 4 Gareth Pugh: Diagonal

What makes Diagonal unusual is its willingness to lead with dill, a note more commonly associated with kitchens than with colognes. Where most green fragrances reach for galbanum, fig leaf, or crushed violet stem, this one takes the herbal route through actual dill oil, giving it an aromatic sharpness that feels culinary without being foody. Pairing that green spike with black tea, nutmeg, and amyris grounds it in something woody and dry. The rosewood and white amber in the base add a faint resinous warmth that keeps the herbs from feeling raw.

The evolution

The opening phase is dominated by dill and black pepper, an almost savory introduction that lands bright and herbaceous, sharper than expected. There's a green, almost briny quality here, like walking past an herb garden after rain. As the composition develops, nutmeg and black tea start to surface, warming the fragrance into something drier and spicier. The dill recedes but never fully disappears, threading through the heart phase like a spine holding everything upright. Amyris and rosewood take over in the later stages, offering a creamy woodiness that rounds the sharper edges. The drydown settles into musk and white amber, sitting close to skin and lingering quietly through the remaining hours. On fabric, the woody base shows notable persistence, maintaining a faint presence well after the initial application.