The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Conceived in 2022 by perfumer Mathieu Nardin for the New York house Régime des Fleurs, Tears translates the fleeting purity of a tear into scent. Founded in 2014, Régime des Fleurs treats fragrance as a tactile tableau, turning moments from art and nature into scented sculptures. Nardin approached this brief with material precision, respecting the emotional weight of something so personal and transient. The choice of Cognac and Mandarin in the opening references the warmth and clarity of a moment just before release, while the Lilac and Iris heart echoes the delicate, almost fragile nature of vulnerability.
The note selection reflects a philosophy of restraint. Nardin chose Lilac and Iris for their historical association with mourning and tenderness, while Cognac grounds the composition in warmth. Frankincense adds a spiritual dimension, and the Ambergris-Musk drydown keeps everything close to the skin, emphasizing the personal nature of tears. This is fragrance as emotional artifact, meant to be worn rather than announced.
The evolution
The fragrance evolves through distinct emotional registers. It opens with the warmth of Cognac, sharpened by Mandarin and Pink Pepper, a brief spark of something almost effervescent before the mood shifts. Lilac emerges as the emotional core, powdery and slightly melancholic, supported by the earthy depth of Iris and the resinous gravity of Frankincense. As the heart fades, Ambergris takes over, bringing a saline, oceanic quality that feels like something dissolving into nothing. Musk lingers as the final memory, intimate and close, a whisper rather than a statement.
Cultural impact
Since its 2022 release, Tears has been noted by niche enthusiasts for its daring green‑cognac opening, often compared to En Passant’s fresh green facet. Wearers cite its ability to evoke a quiet emotional moment, making it a favorite for art‑gallery openings and reflective evenings. Its blend of animalic ambergris with powdery lilac has sparked discussion on how modern perfumery can marry raw materiality with delicate florals.
