The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Black Is Now For Him landed in 2020, composed by Jérôme di Marino for Pepe Jeans London. Di Marino's take reads as a coffee bar at the corner of a market street. Hazelnut, a proper espresso note, and lavender pulled through with nutmeg and patchouli, all of it grounded in vanilla and cedar. The opening has that toasted, almost pastry-like warmth from the hazelnut, the kind of nuttiness that sits closer to a warm morning pastry than anything sharp or aggressive. Right behind it, the espresso accord arrives with a darker, slightly bitter undertone, like the shot pulled at the end of a long night rather than the first one of the day. The lavender works as a counterweight, softening the roast without losing any of the caffeine bite, and the nutmeg keeps the whole top from feeling too sweet.
The unusual move here is what di Marino does with lavender. Most men's fragrances use it as a clean, soapy top. Here, it sits in the heart next to coffee, and the two together create a roasted, almost dessert-like middle that doesn't smell like cologne at all. It feels closer to a late-afternoon espresso with something sweet on the side, smoothed by the nuttiness of hazelnut above and the resinous warmth of Indonesian patchouli below. Vanilla in the base keeps the whole thing from tipping into something overly serious. It is built for someone who wants their scent to do something, not just sit there.
The evolution
The first ten minutes belong to hazelnut and nutmeg, with a bright squeeze of Italian mandarin cutting through. The nuttiness reads almost toasted, like the scent of warm pastry rather than anything sharp. Within thirty minutes, the coffee takes over. This is not a polite coffee hint. It is a full espresso accord, dark and slightly bitter, and the French lavender sits right alongside it like a barista's hand on the cup. The lavender softens the roast without losing the caffeine. By the two-hour mark, the Indonesian patchouli and cedarwood start pulling the composition down into something woodier and more grounded. The vanilla keeps the whole thing from going too dry, lending a sweetness that lasts through the late afternoon. Through the middle hours, the scent behaves like a well-mixed drink, with each ingredient doing its part without crowding the others.
Cultural impact
Black Is Now For Him carries a recognizable hook thanks to its coffee-and-lavender pairing, and that combination gives it a distinct identity without tipping into novelty. The coffee note reads as a full espresso accord rather than a polite hint, and the French lavender softens the roast without losing any of the caffeine bite. It stays drier and more aromatic through the midphase, which keeps it versatile enough for cooler weather. The hazelnut and nutmeg opening adds a toasted, pastry-like warmth that draws you in, while the patchouli and cedarwood base gives the scent a grounded, woody finish that lingers close to the skin.
