Oliban

Frankincense appears twice in the pyramid, top and heart. That's unusual. Typically a note either dominates an opening or lingers in the drydown. Here, it's meant to carry the composition. The trick is in what surrounds it. Chamomile and elemi give the opening a green, almost bitter edge that keeps the frankincense from feeling heavy. Then patchouli and citrus shift it into something cleaner, more aromatic, as it moves into the heart. The base, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, leather, keeps it warm without sweetness. The frankincense never disappears. It just changes clothes.

The evolution

The first fifteen minutes announce themselves sharply. Elemi resin cuts through, bringing a bright, almost citrus-like edge to the frankincense smoke. Chamomile adds a green, herbal quality underneath, unexpected in a composition built around resin. It smells clean, not heavy. Over the next hour, the citrus in the heart emerges. The frankincense deepens, taking on a richer, more resinous character as patchouli grounds it. This is where it earns its keep, the incense doesn't just linger, it evolves. The citrus lifts it, the patchouli anchors it, and for a while the two balance each other out. By hour two, the base takes over. Benzoin and vanilla create a warm, almost sweet core, but cedar and leather keep it grounded. The frankincense is still there, residual, quiet, a reminder of where it started. Leather adds a dry, slightly bitter note that stops the vanilla from becoming too soft. This is the part that stays. Close to skin, intimate, the kind of scent someone leans in to find.