The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Amyi's Coleção 5 is an ongoing study in a single material: vanilla. 5.22, launched in 2025 under perfumer Tiago Motta, is part of that collection. The fragrance takes vanilla and rebuilds it around smoke and tobacco. Vanilla is used as a central material, with smoke and tobacco surrounding it. Motta's work with this collection explores how a familiar ingredient can be recontextualized depending on what accompanies it. This approach to vanilla moves beyond conventional expectations, presenting it as something more complex than a simple comfort note. The numbering system identifies each fragrance in Amyi's catalog, suggesting an organized approach to exploring the potential of individual materials.
The concept seems simple enough on paper: smoked vanilla, caramelized tobacco, suede warmth. But the execution is where things get interesting. Vanilla has a reputation for being agreeable, pleasant, easy to wear. The composition approaches vanilla differently, positioning it alongside smoke rather than at its center. Here, vanilla isn't the soft focal point of the composition. Smoke surrounds the edges of the other notes. The tobacco doesn't sweeten the vanilla; the vanilla doesn't soften the tobacco. They exist alongside each other, each amplifying the other's presence.
The evolution
The opening introduces smoke, followed by benzoin bringing warmth. Vanilla arrives with crème brûlée notes, creating an impression of sweetness alongside the smoke. Benzoin contributes its characteristic resinous quality to the composition. Then the heart notes begin to emerge. Cypriol appears, with its earthy depth anchoring the fragrance. Jasmine absolute brings a creamy floral quality that softens the transition. Tobacco and sage layer in, with sage contributing its herbal character. Caramel weaves through the composition, adding sweetness. The drydown develops as the top notes fade. Smoked vanilla becomes prominent, present in multiple layers rather than a single note. Suede adds its leather-like warmth, labdanum absolute contributes depth, and patchouli provides an earthy finish that grounds the entire composition.
Cultural impact
Amyi 5.22 offers a different approach to fragrance wearing. Its character presents an alternative to bold projections and strong sillage. The fragrance works for those who appreciate subtlety and restraint in their scent choices. This quality reflects a preference for intimacy over announcement, offering something more personal and close-reaching.
