The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
MU:GOO arrived in 2024, composed by Sian Lee as a floral-fruity fragrance for women and men. Its name and concept are not explained here, so the composition tells the story first. Fruit lifts the opening, with lychee and raspberry contributing a slick, juicy brightness. Geranium adds a green herbal snap, while pink pepper introduces clean aromatic heat beside the fruit sweetness. The heart broadens with jasmine, Damask rose, apricot, and peony, creating a full floral center marked by petal softness and ripe fruit. Iris gives the bouquet a cool, powdery edge. Beneath it, white musk, musk, ambergris, and cedarwood create a soft musky base with a dry, restrained finish. The result balances vivid fruit, green aromatics, floral warmth, cool powder, and close-contact woods.
The interesting part is the contrast built into the notes. Lychee and raspberry bring a slick, juicy brightness, while geranium keeps the fruit profile balanced with a green herbal character. Pink pepper adds aromatic tension and a clean touch of heat. Jasmine, Damask rose, apricot, and peony widen the middle into a soft bouquet, balancing transparent flowers with rounded fruit and creamy petals. Iris gives that floral center a cool, powdered edge, followed by the soft textures of white musk and musk. Ambergris adds a subtle mineral warmth, while cedarwood brings a dry woody finish.
The evolution
MU:GOO opens with lychee, raspberry, orange, geranium, and pink pepper. Together, they establish a bright fruit-and-spice profile, with the juicy quality of the fruits balanced by green geranium and the clean aromatic character of pink pepper. As the opening settles, jasmine, Damask rose, apricot, and peony move forward, adding a fuller floral warmth. Jasmine brings a transparent floral lift, Damask rose adds depth, and apricot and peony contribute soft fruit and rounded petals. Iris then introduces a cool, powdery quality, tempering the richness of the floral heart. White musk and musk add soft, skin-like textures, while ambergris contributes a subtle mineral warmth and cedarwood leaves a dry woody trace. The composition develops from vivid fruit and spice into a layered floral center, then finishes with cool powder, soft musk, mineral warmth, and restrained wood.
Cultural impact
MU:GOO presents a floral-fruity composition built around contrast. Lychee, raspberry, and orange establish a juicy opening, while geranium adds a green herbal quality and pink pepper introduces clean aromatic heat. Jasmine, Damask rose, apricot, and peony create a fuller heart, combining transparent and rounded floral textures with soft fruit. Iris brings a cool, powdery note, followed by white musk, musk, ambergris, and cedarwood. Together, these notes make the fragrance an inviting point of discovery for exploring fragrance through fruit, flowers, powder, musk, and wood rather than a single dominant note.
The House
UNDER THE PERGOLAUNDER THE PERGOLA is a new fragrance house with a compact, intriguing catalogue emerging between 2023 and 2026. Led by perfumer Sian, the brand pairs the intimacy of a shaded garden with compositions made for close, personal wearing. Its name suggests a place to pause, where scent becomes part of the atmosphere rather than a distant performance.
The Creator
Sian LeeThere is not enough verified information to define Sian Lee’s technique or preferred ingredients. The available notes name no materials, extraction methods, composition styles, or performance priorities that can be confidently linked to this perfumer.
