The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Serge de Oliveira set out to capture a smiling rose that reveals almond-kissed cherries, a concept whispered in Ormaie is 2023 brief. Rather than building a heavy floral, he chose to frame the rose with a bright opening of lychee, bergamot, and mandarin orange, letting the fruitiness lift the petals rather than weigh them. Drawing on Ormaie is Parisian heritage of natural raw materials and concentrated extrait formulation, he built the heart around cherry and almond, two notes that echo each other is nutty sweetness, then grounded everything in a creamy sandalwood and vanilla base. The result balances playful fruitiness with elegant florals and warm woods.
In Ormaie is note philosophy, each ingredient must justify its place, and 18 - 12 reflects this through its deliberate layering. Lychee, bergamot, and mandarin orange were chosen not just for freshness but to frame the rose without drowning it. Cherry and almond were paired for their natural affinity, sharing a nutty-sweet resonance that makes the heart feel coherent rather than scattered. Sandalwood and vanilla provide the warm anchor that keeps the fragrance grounded, while sage adds a botanical counterpoint that prevents the drydown from becoming too sweet or heavy. Sugar acts as a connector, threading sweetness through the finish without announcing itself loudly.
The evolution
The fragrance begins with lychee is juicy brightness tempered by bergamot is citrus crispness and mandarin orange is fresh zing, a trio that grabs attention immediately. Within minutes, rose emerges alongside cherry and almond, softening the opening into a tender floral-fruity heart. Heliotrope adds a powdery, almost marzipan quality while violet lends softness. As the drydown arrives, sandalwood and vanilla take over, creating a creamy warmth that replaces the fruitiness, with sage offering a clean, herbal finish and sugar extending a gentle sweetness that makes the final hours feel cozy and inviting.
Cultural impact
Since its limited 2023 release, 18 ‑ 12 has sparked conversation among niche enthusiasts for its joyful blend of lychee and almond‑kissed rose. Wearers note its bright opening as a spring‑time mood‑setter, while the sweet‑powdery drydown earns compliments in both casual and office settings. Its balanced sillage and moderate longevity have positioned it as a versatile, conversation‑starter fragrance within the modern French niche scene.
The House
OrmaieOrmaie is a Paris‑based perfume house that creates fragrances from natural raw materials. Founded by mother‑son duo Marie‑Lise Jonak, a veteran fragrance consultant, and Baptiste Bouygues, a former Louis Vuitton and Givenchy perfumer, the brand blends a respect for classic French perfumery with a contemporary, narrative‑driven approach. Each scent is presented as an extrait de parfum, emphasizing concentration and longevity, and the line includes works such as 32° Extrait (2025) and Tableau Parisien (2022).
The Creator
Serge de OliveiraDe Oliveira gravitates naturally toward woody notes, particularly vetiver and patchouli, which drew his attention early under the mentorship of Richard Ibanez at IFF. His recent work leans heavily into 100% natural compositions, a deliberate and more demanding approach that su…
