The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud designed BLV Eau de Parfum II in 2009 as a deliberate departure from the transparent, minimalist fragrances that dominated the previous decade. Rather than chasing the airiest compositions of the 90s, he wanted something rich, clear, and sophisticated, a fragrance that expressed the quality of the house of Bvlgari. The brief was simple: connect opposites. Cool and warm. Sharp and soft. Powdery and fresh. The result is a composition that opens with a surprising anise-violet combination and settles into a floral heart that feels both modern and timeless.
What makes this composition unusual is how the star anise and licorice don't fight the violet, they orbit it. The iris absolute anchors the heart, giving it that characteristic powdery softness that distinguishes this from a typical floral. The base introduces ambergris, which adds a slightly marine, mineral quality that prevents the drydown from becoming too sweet. It's a composition that could have gone in many directions; the choice to let violet lead, with anise and licorice as support rather than the main event, is what gives BLV II its particular character.
The evolution
The first spray hits cool and sharp, violet leaf and star anise create an almost medicinal freshness. Mandarin arrives quickly, sweetening the edges without softening them. Within fifteen minutes, the licorice becomes more apparent, and the whole composition shifts toward warmth. The heart takes over around the thirty-minute mark: iris and jasmine bloom quietly, with vetiver and patchouli grounding the florals in something slightly earthy. The drydown is where this fragrance earns its reputation. Benzoin and labdanum create a warm, powdery amber that stays close to the skin for four to six hours. The ambergris adds a mineral edge that prevents it from becoming cloying, it's warmth without heaviness.
Cultural impact
BLV Eau de Parfum II occupies an interesting position, neither a mass-market floral nor a niche statement. It attracted wearers who wanted something with character but without the intensity of oriental fragrances that were popular at the time. The violet-anise opening was unusual enough to generate conversation, while the powdery drydown made it wearable for everyday occasions. It's been discontinued and rereleased multiple times, suggesting a loyal base that keeps it in circulation.
