The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Bvlgari's Splendida collection arrived in 2008 with a clear directive from the house: jasmine as the protagonist, nothing held back. Carlos Benaïm and Sophie Labbé, working through IFF, accepted the challenge of recontextualizing one of perfumery's most overexposed notes. The brief demanded that jasmine shed its familiar associations and step into unfamiliar territory, wrapped in unexpected accords that the house's geometric design language would approve of.
The decision to pair jasmine with almond and black licorice reflects a philosophy of contrast over harmony. Benaïm and Labbé understood that jasmine's strength lies in its ability to absorb surrounding notes without losing its identity. Almond softens jasmine's sharper edges while black licorice adds mystery to its sweetness. The tonka bean ensures the entire composition breathes rather than cloys, making the final result feel crafted rather than accidental.
The evolution
The opening burst of gardenia and plant sap immediately signals that this jasmine will not be polite. The lactonic creaminess of gardenia collides with the sharp green bite of sap, creating an entry that demands attention. Within the first hour, jasmine blooms fully as almond enters the picture, adding a nutty sweetness that feels almost gourmand. The drydown arrives with woody notes providing structure while black licorice introduces its distinctive anise character and tonka bean delivers the final word, warm and smooth as old velvet.
Cultural impact
Released in September 2008 with Kate Moss as the face, shot on Ibiza, the advertising language and campaign matched the composition's character. The mysterious bottle and nocturnal campaign reflected the fragrance's nature. The dark drydown and the licorice root depth give the composition a complexity that distinguishes it from more straightforward white floral orientals, creating something that rewards attention and closer study rather than making its impression from across a room.
