The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Koh-do arrived in 2011 from Segreti di Lucca, with the perfumer credited here. The name, Koh-do, Il gioco dell'Incenso, is accompanied by a composition built around frankincense and an aromatic woody world of conifer notes, dry leaves, blackcurrant, nutmeg, and a balsamic base of cedarwood, oakmoss, and tonka bean. Bergamot appears at the opening, lending a bright citrus accent to the resinous and woody materials. The result is a fragrance that moves between smoke, greenery, fruit, spice, and polished wood, with each note adding a distinct texture to the composition.
What makes this structure worth noticing is the collision. Frankincense brings a resinous character, while bergamot, birch leaf, and balsam fir introduce brighter and greener facets. Blackcurrant adds a distinctly fruity note to the mix, creating a contrast with the surrounding woods. Nutmeg contributes a warm spice note, oakmoss brings out the composition's earthy character, and tonka bean lends a sweet element to the base. Each material has a distinct presence, and the note list combines them into a layered aromatic whole.
The evolution
The opening is built around the contrast between bergamot and frankincense. Bergamot contributes a sharp, bright quality, while frankincense adds a resinous, smoky dimension. The citrus gives the first impression definition before the woody and green notes become more prominent. Birch leaf and balsam fir form part of the middle, joined by pine and cedar leaf for additional coniferous and woody character. Nutmeg adds warmth, while blackcurrant contributes a dark fruit note at the center. During the drydown, the composition emphasizes cedarwood, oakmoss, and tonka bean, leaving a base that combines smooth wood, earthy depth, and sweetness. Over time, the fragrance develops from a bright, resinous opening into a richer woody accord, with the fruit and spice notes providing contrast between the green and woody materials.
Cultural impact
Koh-do offers a distinctive entry into incense-and-conifer perfumery, combining resinous frankincense with bergamot, birch leaf, balsam fir, pine, cedar leaf, blackcurrant, nutmeg, cedarwood, oakmoss, and tonka bean. The composition moves from citrus brightness into a layered heart of greenery, fruit, spice, and woods before settling into a balsamic base. Its character suits anyone drawn to compositions that balance aromatic depth with a crisp opening, making it a fragrance worth exploring on skin and over time.
The House
Segreti di LuccaSegreti di Lucca is an Italian fragrance house founded in 2004 by Simonetta Giurlani Pardini. Its identity is rooted in Lucca, a Tuscan city shaped by Renaissance streets, gardens, and a long association with the cultivated world of perfume. The house presents fragrance as a way of discovering character and place through scents inspired by nature, travel, and atmosphere. Its catalog spans floral, tobacco, and woody compositions, including Boheme, Elisa, Koh-do, Luludi, and Carib, Spiriti del Tabacco. The available documentation identifies no individual perfumers, allowing the fragrances themselves to define the house’s distinctive character.
The Creator
Simonetta Giurlani PardiniGiurlani Pardini's signature moves toward clarity of expression and refined textural contrast. Her work with vanilla demonstrates a preference for lightness and air, treating sweetness as something to be edited and reshaped rather than simply amplified.
