The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Twenty-five years in, John Varvatos marked the milestone with a fragrance that says more about the house than any retrospective. XX Elixir arrived in 2025 as part of the anniversary collection, aligned with the brand's 'Love Letter to New York' theme, a reference to the city where Varvatos built his name. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux was tasked with capturing that specific energy: rock-and-roll at its core, but refined enough to wear to dinner. The fragrance moves between boldness and restraint, allowing the herbal and warm facets to unfold gradually as it develops on the skin.
The note structure rewards closer attention. Ginger brings a sharp, spicy quality that catches most wearers' awareness, creating a distinct first impression. Bergamot adds a clean, understated citrus note that anchors the opening without leaning into obvious brightness. In the heart, rum brings fermented sweetness that pairs unexpectedly well with black iris. Geranium introduces a sharper, more vibrant counterpoint that prevents the composition from becoming too soft as it evolves.
The evolution
The opening announces itself immediately. Bergamot and davana create a bright, slightly medicinal first impression, with red ginger adding a spike of clean heat. The davana contributes an herbal quality that grounds the citrus, creating initial depth. Within twenty minutes, the rum enters the conversation. It doesn't overwhelm the opening so much as reshape it, adding warmth and sweetness that soften the davana's edge. The geranium and black iris arrive as partners, their florality tempering the rum's fermented sweetness into something more composed. The drydown is where XX Elixir earns its anniversary status. The leather settles in first, smooth and refined. Tonka bean adds a creamy sweetness that keeps the leather from reading harsh. Cedarwood provides dry, woody structure that supports the final phase of development.
Cultural impact
XX Elixir arrived as a 25th anniversary statement, aligned with the brand's 'Love Letter to New York' theme. Community reception has been broadly positive, with wearers highlighting the leather drydown and solid longevity as standout qualities. The composition features prominent leather and rum notes, with a warmth that suits cooler seasons and evening wear. The drydown quality earns consistent praise, with the interplay between leather, tonka, and cedar creating a memorable finish. Some find it approachable compared to earlier Varvatos releases, though the depth of the final phase remains a signature characteristic.
