XS (2018).

XS Pour Homme arrived in 1994 as Rabanne's answer to the question every fragrance house was asking: what does a modern man's scent look like? The answer was extremes, fresh and structured, transparent and intense. When the house repriced and repackaged it in 2018, the composition stayed untouched. That tells you something. Some formulas don't need revision. Perfumers Rosendo Mateu and Gerard Anthony built something that already answered its own brief.

The real move here is the oakmoss. Most modern fresh fragrances have backed away from it, IFRA restrictions, skin sensitivity, the general industry drift toward clean synthetics. XS doesn't flinch. It's in the base, doing what oakmoss does: adding depth, a slight earthiness, a sense that this freshness has somewhere to land. The juniper and coriander in the heart amplify that effect, they're not bright in the citrus sense, they're bright in the way gin is bright. Aromatic, slightly austere, with a spice that doesn't announce itself but builds quietly. It's the structural backbone Rabanne's philosophy demands: freshness that's not just a first impression but part of a full argument.

The opening is immediate. Mint and bergamot arrive together, lemon following close behind, citrusy in the way that feels like the inside of a car door opening in August. It doesn't ease in. The transition happens around the 15-minute mark: juniper and coriander push forward, the lemon retreats, and you're left with something that smells like a walking stick and a garden at the same time. Geranium arrives around the 30-minute mark, softening the gin-like sharpness into something rounder. The drydown is where oakmoss and sandalwood take over, and this is the part that outlasts the rest, rosemary threading through, giving it an herbal quality that doesn't fade but evolves. On fabric, expect 6-8 hours. On skin, closer to 6. The sillage is moderate, not a room-filler, but people will notice if they lean in.

XS occupies a specific corner of the market: the man who wants something unmistakably masculine without reaching for the obvious choice. It's fresh enough for daily wear, structured enough to have character, and priced in a way that doesn't require justification. The 1994 original had staying power, this 2018 repackaging proves the formula still holds.