The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
The name is the statement. Anti Anti doesn't explain itself, it refuses to. Created in 2016 by Mark Buxton and David Chieze for Hamburg-based niche house Atelier PMP, this fragrance was built as an olfactive argument against the expected. Not a safe choice. Not a crowd-pleaser. Something that holds its ground.
The heart of this composition lives in contradiction. Hazelnut and cacao absolute together, creamy nut against bitter chocolate, should feel heavy. It doesn't. The birch tar and osmanthus absolute keep pulling it sideways, introducing a smoky, almost medicinal edge that keeps the sweetness honest. Leather does what leather does: anchors everything in something worn, lived-in, real.
The evolution
The contradiction becomes the point. Anti Anti doesn't resolve, it holds the tension on purpose. Cardamom and bitter orange arrive together, neither waiting for the other. Five minutes in, hazelnut softens everything. As the heart develops, leather emerges as a defining element, woven seamlessly into the composition rather than announcing itself dramatically. The drydown is where it earns trust: benzoin and labdanum warm up, vetiver grounds them. Sandalwood, oak, cedar. Clean woods, not resinous ones. The longevity remains intimate and close to the skin throughout wear, leaving an impression that is impossible to ignore if you're standing close enough to matter.
Cultural impact
Anti Anti occupies a distinct space in the niche market, inviting repeated exploration. The pairing of osmanthus and birch tar creates an unexpected dialogue within the composition. Osmanthus contributes its characteristic fruity-floral essence, while birch tar adds an intriguing smoky dimension that balances the sweetness. The result is a fragrance that resists easy description, challenging the wearer to engage more deeply with its layered complexity. For those seeking something that rewards close attention, this fragrance earns the focus it demands.
The House
PMP Perfumes Mayr PlettenbergThe Creator
Mark Buxton & David ChiezeMark favors a structural approach that starts with a strong base, often built from rare woods, ambergris substitutes, or aged resins. He layers these foundations with carefully selected heart notes—spices, florals or herbs—that add depth without overwhelming the base.
