The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Alex Lee built 102 Mandarino around a fruit that traveled. Mandarin, originally from China, made its way to the Mediterranean and became a small ritual there, a symbol of good luck, a thing you give when you want something to go right. Lee drew on his Asian heritage to frame it, the fruit as cultural carrier, not just a top note. For LabSolue, he translated that history into a composition that keeps the tangerine's vivid skin intact through cold pressing, then wraps it in the warmth of pure vanilla. The brief reads almost childlike on paper: awaken the child within you. The execution is anything but.
The interesting choice here is restraint. A citrus-vanilla pairing could collapse into simple sweetness or sharp cleaning-product territory, and Lee steers it between those poles by using Italian tangerine essential oil, not a synthetic reconstruction. Cold pressing the vivid skin preserves those zesty, almost bitter green facets that keep the sweetness honest. Then the vanilla isn't a whisper at the base, it's the structural warmth underneath, the thing that makes the tangerine feel like a memory rather than a splash. Two ingredients, doing real work together.
The evolution
The first fifteen minutes are pure tangerine, almost confrontational in their brightness. Cold-pressed citrus oil has a green, almost herbal edge that reads louder than most people expect. There's nothing creamy yet, no vanilla cushion. Just fruit, vivid and sharp, the way the skin smells when you peel it with your fingers. The opening attacks rather than charms, and that rawness is part of the point. Then something shifts. The vanilla arrives quietly at first, a warmth that doesn't announce itself, more like the temperature of the room changing than a new note entering. There's no clear boundary where the citrus ends and the vanilla begins, just a gradual hand-off, the fruit losing its sharp edges one by one until what remains is rounder, sweeter, but still recognizably tangerine rather than orange or generic citrus. The tangerine never fully leaves.
Cultural impact
102 Mandarino earns its identity from a deceptively simple accord: two ingredients doing real work. The tangerine is vivid, almost confrontational at the start, and the vanilla underneath gives it enough structure to persist rather than vanishing the way most citrus compositions do. What's interesting about the formula is the restraint. Rather than layering on extra notes to make the fruit last, the perfumer lets the vanilla do the heavy lifting, acting as both anchor and softener. The result is a composition that smells like one continuous gesture rather than a beginning, middle, and end stitched together.
The House
LabSolueLabSolue is an Italian niche perfume house that blends artisanal craft with modern lab techniques. Based in Milan, the brand offers a curated line of fragrances that draw on natural ingredients and a family tradition of scent making. Each scent arrives in a bottle that references historic apothecary vessels, while the formulas emphasize balance and depth. LabSolue also designs home diffusers that echo the same amber‑glass aesthetic, extending the olfactory experience beyond personal wear.
The Creator
Alex LeeLee favors warmth without heaviness. His compositions tend toward rich, layered structures where each material earns its place.
















































