The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
The 2024 launch represents LabSolue's most direct olfactory statement yet, an entire fragrance organized around one ingredient's singular appeal. Perfumer Emilie Bevierre-Coppermann built 320 Ambra Grigia around the house's exclusive Ambergris Accord, a proprietary reconstruction designed to isolate and amplify what makes the real thing so arresting. The brief was not to use ambergris as a fixative, as most houses do, but to make it the main event. The supporting notes arrived second: olibanum for mineral smoke, seaweed for brine, musk for warmth. The fragrance's numbered designation follows LabSolue's house code system, where each scent carries a numeric identifier reflecting its position within the collection.
What makes 320 Ambra Grigia work is the paradox at its center. Ambergris is warm, animalic, intimate. The kelp and olibanum introduce a cold aquatic edge and a smoky minerality that keep the composition from settling into sweetness. The result is a fragrance that feels both ancient and modern, the warmth of something that lived, the salt of somewhere remote. It is a study in restraint: how much of one thing can a perfume hold before it becomes something else entirely?
The evolution
The opening is brief, a minute on skin, maybe less. Ambergris arrives with mineral-salty brine, the kelp reads like the shore after the tide pulls back. Then the hand-off. As the heart opens, it turns warm and powdery, olibanum smoke curls through ambergris sweetness, musk softens everything into a quiet exhale. The drydown is where 320 Ambra Grigia earns its name. The ambergris deepens, becomes animalic-mineral, the kind of warmth that someone notices after you've already left the room. Works on skin for hours. Lingers on fabric for days.
Cultural impact
Ambergris has been a perfumery legend for centuries, prized by the ancient Egyptians, hoarded by sailors, and worth more than its weight in gold by volume. The real thing is heavily regulated now, which has made creative reconstructions increasingly valuable. LabSolue has quietly built its identity around aquatic and marine-forward compositions with animalic complexity, and 320 Ambra Grigia is the house's most direct statement of that character.
