The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Ex Manifattura Tabacchi began as an homage to Naples' industrial heritage. Perfumer Giovanni Festa grew up near Via San Gregorio, where the scent of hand-rolled tobacco once drifted from centuries-old factories. Rather than recreating a nostalgic memory, he set out to capture the living atmosphere of these works hops in 2024, translating the gritty, aromatic environment into a wearable composition. The result reflects both the harshness and beauty of manual craft, blending traditional tobacco with Mediterranean botanicals like myrtle to give the fragrance a distinctly Neapolitan character.
Floridia's approach to note selection reflects their belief that authentic scents come from specific places, not abstract concepts. Tobacco anchors the fragrance because it represents the works hops' primary material, but myrtle was chosen specifically for its Mediterranean ubiquity and its ability to add freshness without sacrificing authenticity. The vanilla in the heart provides necessary warmth that makes the smoky drydown approachable, while Norlimbanol was selected for its clean, lasting qualities that extend wear time without overwhelming the composition's natural character.
The evolution
The fragrance evolves like a walk through an old workshop at golden hour. Tobacco opens the narrative with immediate authority, its dark, aromatic presence dominating the first minutes. Myrtle arrives shortly after, its berry-like brightness lifting the composition, while violet adds a fleeting floral accent. As the initial intensity softens, lavender emerges as the bridge, its clean herbal notes tempering the tobacco's rawness. Vetiver grounds this transition with earthy depth, and vanilla sweetens the approach to the drydown. Guaiac wood and Norlimbanol then take over, transforming the composition into a smoky, delicate finish that recalls incense-filled air rather than raw leaf.
Cultural impact
Since its 2024 debut, Ex Manifattura Tabacchi has been noted as a finalist in the Independent category at the 2025 Art and Olfaction Awards, earning praise for its bold tobacco‑violet blend. Wearers often describe it as the scent of a Neapolitan night‑shift worker stepping out of a tobacco shop, giving the fragrance a gritty, authentic cultural resonance that sets it apart in the niche market.
