The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Comme des Garçons launched the Series 4 Cologne collection as a modern return to 18th-century alchemy, a splash in three fragrances. The brief was simple: take the cologne format seriously. Not as a body splash or an afterthought, but as a complete composition. Anbar, created by Mark Buxton, answers that brief by pairing bright citrus with something unexpected: warmth that lasts.
What makes Anbar work is the tension between freshness and sensuality. Bergamot and mandarin open clean, that's the 18th-century cologne DNA showing through. But clove, carnation, and amber introduce a warmth that prevents the whole thing from simply evaporating. The sensual musk in the base is the real move here: it keeps the composition grounded long after the citrus fades, which is not something you can say about most colognes. The heart adds lavender too, which softens the spice just enough to keep everything wearably integrated.
The evolution
Anbar opens bright and immediate, bergamot, mandarin, lemon blossom hitting together in the first few minutes. It's clean. It's citrus. It does exactly what you expect from a cologne. Then something shifts. Around the 15-minute mark, the clove and carnation start to push through, warming the composition without killing the freshness. The lavender keeps it soft. The amber starts to build, adding body. By the hour, the citrus hasn't disappeared, it's just sharing space with something warmer. That's the clever part: it doesn't abandon what it promised. It just adds to it. The drydown is where Anbar earns its reputation. The sensual musk doesn't project much, it stays close, intimate, almost a secret. But it extends the wear significantly. Four to six hours on most skin, with the last hour being warm skin, not empty air.
Cultural impact
Anbar occupies a specific corner of the fragrance world: it's for someone who wants an androgynous citrus that doesn't disappear in 30 minutes. The 2002 release found an audience among CdG devotees and fragrance enthusiasts tired of choosing between fresh and long-lasting. It's not a crowd-pleaser in the traditional sense, the clove and carnation keep it from being completely safe, but for those who find it, it tends to become a regular rotation.

































