Clinique Happy In Bloom 2011

The top notes blend plum and green, creating that dewy fruit-garden effect that reads as morning without trying to. There's something aquatic lurking in the top too, depending on your skin, a cool wetness that keeps the fruity notes from feeling too sweet. The heart is where it gets interesting. Mimosa appears here, a note that shows up rarely enough in mainstream perfumery that when it does, it registers as something worth noting. Freesia and lily of the valley round out the white and yellow floral palette into something soft and companionable rather than shouty.

The evolution

First impression: bright and immediate. Plum and green notes hit the nose with a crisp, dewy quality, like light through leaves in the early morning. There's something aquatic lurking in the top too, depending on your skin, a cool wetness that keeps the fruity notes from feeling too sweet. The heart gradually takes over as the top notes begin to recede. Freesia and mimosa move in together, making the green notes fade and the floral heart bloom. The transition is smooth, not abrupt. By the mid-drydown, you're in powder-floral territory. Lily of the valley and amber settle close to the skin. The woody notes add a gentle warmth underneath without ever getting heavy or dark. The sillage remains moderate, intimate rather than overwhelming. What lingers is the memory of flowers after rain.