The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Lee AM arrived in 2018 from Yanina Yakusheva, the Russian perfumer whose practice moves between analytical clarity and intimate detail. Its inspiration is recorded through its composition rather than a documented anecdote: a broad, unisex palette that lets fruit, white flowers, iris, patchouli, oud, amber, and musk share the same frame. The scent reveals itself through contrasts, balancing juicy fruit with lifted florals, a powdery heart, and a deep woody base. Blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, and passion fruit lend the opening vivid sweetness, while lily and orchid keep it clear and animated. Iris and heliotrope introduce a soft, contemplative texture, followed by patchouli and oud for depth and structure.
The unusual part is the friction between materials that usually keep their distance. Blackberry, dried plum, passion fruit, and blackcurrant bring juicy darkness, while lily and orchid keep the composition lifted rather than syrupy. Heliotrope and iris add a powdery, almost pensive texture. Patchouli and oud then pull the whole arrangement toward earth and smoke, with amber and musk supplying the long, soft gravity underneath. As the fruit gradually recedes, the floral notes remain light above the composition, giving the darker fruits a polished clarity.
The evolution
The opening brings forward the fruit: blackberry and passion fruit, with plum and blackcurrant adding darker juice. Lily and orchid keep that sweetness from becoming syrupy, placing a cool white floral shape around it. As the scent settles, heliotrope and iris create a powdery pause, like silk drawn over polished wood. Patchouli then introduces a dry, earthy edge, and oud deepens the composition without flattening its floral center. Amber arrives as warmth, then musk softens the edges and keeps the final trail close to skin. The fruit notes initially read as bright and saturated, but their sweetness becomes more nuanced as the white florals pass through the composition. Heliotrope and iris add a delicate, powdery veil, while patchouli introduces an earthy counterweight.
Cultural impact
Lee AM belongs to the world of expressive niche fragrance, where a scent can function as a personal signature rather than a seasonal accessory. Its broad character comes through a carefully layered vocabulary of fruit, white flowers, iris, heliotrope, patchouli, oud, amber, and musk. Juicy berries and passion fruit establish a vivid opening, while the florals introduce lightness and the powdery notes add refinement. Patchouli and oud provide depth, and amber and musk give the composition a warm, soft finish. The result is a fragrance that invites close attention to how each material changes the ones around it.
The House
Yanina YakushevaYanina Yakusheva is a Russian artisan perfumery brand founded by perfumer Yanina Yakusheva, who trained and practiced as a doctor before pursuing fragrance creation. The brand emerged from Krasnodar, Russia, and maintains its operations in Sofia, Bulgaria. Specializing in handcrafted perfumes, the collection spans multiple olfactory territories, from the green-fresh character of William to the lactonic floral warmth of Ravenna, and the distinctive named compositions like Gideon, Aron, and the provocative Ilyich Lenin. The brand made its international debut at Pitti Fragranze in Florence during 2021, with Omnia Luxury Trade handling exclusive distribution in Italy. Each fragrance in the catalog carries a named character portrait, suggesting narratives that extend beyond simple scent descriptions into imagined personalities.
The Creator
Yanina YakushevaYakusheva operates between classical tradition and experimental boldness. Her compositions favor depth and layering, often building around creamy florals, soft musks, and warm vanillas.
