The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Every house needs a beginning. For Parfums 137, that beginning was Olibanum, launched in 2013 by perfumer Isabelle Maillebiau. The fragrance was built around a single material: raw, aromatic frankincense resin, unadorned and allowed to speak for itself. Not as a background note. Not as an accent. As the structural spine of the entire composition. The choice was deliberate: if you're going to study a material, let it carry the weight.
The note pyramid does something unexpected here. Freesia and hawthorn arrive at the top, not to soften the frankincense, but to sharpen it. Their cool, almost green floralcy creates a brief window of clarity before the warm spices take over. Cloves and labdanum form the heart: dry, resinous, with a faint bitterness that keeps things honest. Then the base does what bases do, stays. Frankincense, myrrh, and Siam benzoin build a smoky, sweet foundation that lingers for hours. The result is a fragrance that rewards patience: what seems simple at first reveals a quiet complexity.
The evolution
On skin, Olibanum moves deliberately. The opening lasts a solid thirty minutes, pine and hawthorn giving the freesia room to breathe before the florals fade, as intended. Then clove arrives, dry and warm, followed by labdanum adding a faint resinous amber. The transition isn't dramatic. No sudden reversals. Just a gradual warmth that builds. By hour two, the frankincense takes over. The smoke becomes the story, warm, clean, with myrrh and benzoin softening the edges into something almost sweet. The drydown holds close. Intimate projection, but persistent. Hours later, what remains is a faint trace of resin on skin and a ghost of smoke on fabric.
Cultural impact
Olibanum arrived as a study in restraint. Rather than chasing complexity, Parfums 137 offered a single-note exploration: frankincense as the main character, with supporting materials chosen for contrast and clarity. For wearers exploring incense beyond the usual cathedral-heavy repertoire, it offered a quieter entry point, frankincense without the drama. The moderate sillage suited those who wanted presence without projection, and the honest, restrained character appealed to collectors seeking depth over flash. It remains a reference point for the house's philosophy: simplicity as a form of precision.






















