The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Patrick Bodifee designed Use Black for Naso di Raza with a simple provocation: what if black wasn't dark at all? The concept reframes darkness as depth rather than despair. Bodifee's stated intention, draw a shadow of happiness, for without it, it is not complete, treats darkness as something that completes rather than diminishes. The scent announces itself with intention and purpose.
What makes Use Black structurally unusual is its approach to coherence. Rather than treating oud as a dark anchor and everything else as decoration, the composition uses its core materials, oud, leather, saffron, patchouli, as a continuous thread through all three phases. The same ingredients tell different chapters. Raspberry appears in the opening for a tart-fruity jolt, while warm spice and leather build a scaffolding that gives the composition structure and purpose.
The evolution
The opening announces itself immediately. Raspberry's tart sweetness meets pink pepper's delicate spice, underscored by rhubarb's acidic green edge. It doesn't whisper. Thirty minutes in, the saffron threads warmth through the tartness while oud and leather take structural command. The sweet-fruity notes darken, becoming something rounder and more assertive. This is the phase that separates enthusiasts from casual observers. By the second hour, the heart has settled. Jasmine and sandalwood add softness without diluting anything. The drydown rewards patience: sandalwood and vanilla arrive quietly, and the oud becomes intimate, close to skin, warm, almost skin-like itself rather than theatrical. On fabric, the scent lingers in the fibers long after the initial spray.
Cultural impact
Use Black occupies a specific corner of niche perfumery: bold enough for oud enthusiasts, structured enough for leather fans, with enough animalic presence to intrigue anyone who thinks they've smelled everything in the genre. The launch positioned it among compositions that approached oud with a different sensibility, making the material feel immediate rather than distant. Wearers find it speaks for itself without needing explanation.
The House
Naso Di RazaNaso di Raza is an Italian niche fragrance house that emerged from a collective of fragrance enthusiasts united by their belief in the persuasive power of scent. The house operates as a platform for author perfumery, entrusting creative freedom to a rotating roster of independent noses rather than maintaining a house signature. Each fragrance tells its own story, drawing from ideas, memories, images, or lifestyles interpreted through the lens of individual perfumers. The brand positions itself at the intersection of Italian artistic temperament and French perfumery technique, producing scents that prioritize emotional resonance over commercial trends. With releases spanning from 2015 through 2025, the collection has grown to include over a dozen distinct fragrances, each numbered among limited editions rather than mass-market runs. The house works with perfumers including Michelle Moellhausen and Luca Maffei, among others, whose identities vary by composition. This collaborative model distinguishes Naso di Raza from houses built around a single in-house nose.
The Creator
Patrick BodifeeHis technique blends classic French layering with a modern, minimalist aesthetic. He often begins with a single heart note—lavender, oud or jasmine—and builds a supporting cast of transparent accords that highlight rather than overwhelm.
