The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Julie Massé composed Santal Cashmere for Khalil T. in 2023, working in the quiet register she's known for. The brief seems to have been a sandalwood composition that doesn't apologize for being soft, but also doesn't drift into usual gourmand sweetness. Red algae appears among the opening notes, introducing an unusual marine-adjacent character through its cool, briny impression, while aquatic notes keep the scent feeling airy and mineral. As the fragrance settles, orris absolute softens the composition, and the sandalwood comes forward with a creamy, natural presence. The contrast is what gives Santal Cashmere its point of view: the aquatic opening makes the familiar wood feel newly exposed, while the orris rounds out its edges.
Red algae in a sandalwood composition is unusual, and here it creates a striking point of contrast. Its cool, briny character introduces a saline impression before the softer materials begin to take over. Orris absolute adds a powdery, almost suede-like quality, while the sandalwood brings creamy density beneath it. The interaction is less about one note overpowering another than about their changing balance. At first, the algae and aquatic notes make the fragrance feel open, fresh, and close to water.
The evolution
The first 20 minutes belong to the algae and aquatic notes. They're cool, slightly green, and faintly saline, giving the opening a watery clarity that makes the fragrance feel immediately fresh. Then the orris absolute arrives, bringing a powdery, rooty softness that feels almost suede-like against the skin. The sandalwood swells underneath it, creamy and dense, and the whole composition pivots toward its warmer center. The contrast is gradual rather than abrupt. The aquatic opening loosens the wood's edges, while the orris gives the sandalwood a smoother, more tactile presence. By the two-hour mark, the initial aquatic impression has receded into memory, leaving a sandalwood that carries just enough of that briny coolness to feel modern.
Cultural impact
Santal Cashmere explores the softer side of sandalwood without giving up contrast. Wearers often reach for fabric terms such as cashmere, suede, and soft wool when describing how the orris and sandalwood read on skin, which reflects the composition's tactile, comforting character. Yet the opening keeps the fragrance from becoming merely warm or enveloping. Red algae and aquatic notes introduce a cool, briny impression that changes the way the wood is perceived. Some people drawn to sweetness in sandalwood may find the opening less familiar, while those who prefer wood without gourmand associations may appreciate its mineral freshness.
