The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Sesame lands in 2026 as part of Jil Sander's Olfactory Series 1, and it opens with a question that sounds deceptively simple: what does restraint smell like? Meabh McCurtin takes the brief on. The composition is stripped to its essentials, and the four notes do nearly all the talking. Aldehydes at the threshold, a clean and slightly waxy brightness that reads almost metallic on first contact. Cocoa shell and oak CO2 share the core, one offering that dry, papery, faintly bitter edge of cacao, the other bringing a green-woody dimension that keeps the whole thing from tipping into powder. American cedar anchors the base, steady and warm.
Cocoa shell is the unusual one here. Where cocoa absolute tends to read gourmand, sweet and dessert-adjacent, the shell behaves differently. McCurtin uses the shell instead of the bean, which means you get the dry, papery, faintly bitter edge of cacao without the confectionery pull. The material carries its own quiet intensity: a little ashy, a little nutty, something that recalls raw cacao husks more than any chocolate bar. Oak CO2 sits beside it in the core, extracted in a way that preserves the greener, more luminous facets of oak wood.
The evolution
The aldehydes arrive first, and they announce themselves clearly. There is a clean, slightly metallic brightness at the top, something that feels cold-laundered, like stepping into a room where the curtains just opened. The effect is crisp without feeling sharp, transparent without feeling empty, and it sets the entire register for what follows. The cocoa shell enters next, and it does not enter sweet. It arrives dry, faintly ashy, with something almost nutty underneath, and it carries a quiet intensity that reads more like raw cacao husk than any dessert. You notice the papery, faintly bitter quality immediately, and it gives the composition a grounded center that nothing in the opening promised. The oak CO2 settles in alongside the cocoa, and this is where the fragrance finds its real character.
Cultural impact
Sesame arrives as part of Jil Sander's Olfactory Series 1, a 2026 initiative from the house. The use of cocoa shell rather than cocoa absolute, and oak CO2 alongside the other materials, marks a deliberate choice at the raw-material level. McCurtin works with specific note selections, and the resulting composition speaks to wearers who appreciate restraint and skin-close sillage over projection. The fragrance sits close to the skin, and that positioning becomes the point: Sesame is built for the wearer rather than the room, for intimacy rather than announcement.

















