The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Filigree and Shadow launched Wax and Wane in 2015 as part of the brand's founding wave of fragrances, designed to challenge expectations rather than follow them. Perfumer James Elliott, working from the studio in West Seattle, wanted to capture something cyclic in the name itself, the way wax flares bright and wane fades slow. The fragrance was conceived as a single scent that contained its own arc, a temporal narrative contained in a bottle. The choice of notes reflects this ambition: an opening that blazes, a heart that smolders, and a base that dissipates slowly into memory.
The note selection for Wax and Wane reflects Filigree and Shadow's philosophy of pairing unexpected ingredients to create tension and resolution within a single fragrance. Bergamot and coriander were chosen for the opening because they share a citrus and herbal character but diverge in texture, creating an opening that is bright yet slightly rough at the edges. The heart combines cardamom, broom, and saffron because these three notes, while distinct, share a warmth that allows them to layer without competing. The base of oud, sandalwood, and tobacco was selected to provide the slow fade that the name promises, with each note contributing a different dimension of warmth and darkness.
The evolution
The fragrance begins with bergamot and coriander, a combination that reads as both citrus-bright and herbally assertively. Bergamot provides the initial spark while coriander introduces a green, slightly peppery counterpoint that keeps the opening grounded in earth rather than pure brightness. Within the first fifteen minutes, the heart takes over: cardamom's warm spice, broom's subtle floral quality, and saffron's distinctive richness. The transition is not abrupt but feels like a natural shift in temperature. The drydown then unfolds into oud, sandalwood, and tobacco, a base that marks the wane of the title. Oud brings dark resinous wood, sandalwood adds creamy warmth, and tobacco introduces a quiet smokiness that persists long after the initial flash has faded. The arc is designed to be felt as a single continuous movement rather than discrete stages.
Cultural impact
Since its debut, Wax & Wane has become a quiet reference point for modern niche perfumery, especially among collectors who value a narrative that blends bright citrus with deep, smoky woods. Its coriander‑forward opening broke the usual bergamot‑only introductions, inspiring a wave of fragrances that experiment with herbaceous spices in the top tier. Over the years, the scent has been cited in several editorial round‑ups as a hallmark of balanced complexity, and it continues to be discussed in community forums where enthusiasts dissect its evolving perception across seasons and personal chemistry. The fragrance’s vegan formulation also sparked conversations about sustainable sourcing in the niche market, reinforcing its cultural relevance beyond mere scent profile.
