The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
88 arrived in 2022, the same year Toskovat emerged as a Ukrainian independent fragrance house. Christian Carbonnel, also known as Chris Maurice, created a unisex composition around a deliberate friction: Chinese ginger, Chinese liquorice and Thai basil bring clean heat and aromatic snap, while Laotian oud supplies deep, woody gravity. The brief remains spare, but the direction is clear. This isn't a fragrance built on polite prettiness. Ginger cuts through sweetness, liquorice adds a dark mineral edge, and basil keeps the composition tied to something green and alive. The result feels less like an accessory and more like a rule the wearer has decided to set.
The unusual part is how many registers meet without losing their shape. Ginger gives the opening clean heat rather than heavy spice. Liquice works beside it like a dark, herbal punctuation, while Thai basil introduces a leafy lift. Chinese geranium and Japanese osmanthus soften the middle with floral character, but they never make the composition conventionally pretty. Frankincense pulls the air toward smoke and resin. Laotian oud then supplies the lasting shadow underneath. That contrast is what gives 88 its character: fresh enough to feel awake, woody enough to feel deliberate, and strange enough to reward a second sniff.
The evolution
The first impression is a clean, aromatic burst. Ginger and liquorice sharpen the opening, while Thai basil keeps it green rather than heavy. That brightness soon makes room for Chinese geranium and Japanese osmanthus, bringing a floral and herbal middle that feels more textured than sweet. As the scent settles, frankincense introduces a resinous haze and Laotian oud turns the base darker, woodier and more grounded. On skin, the middle appears to hover between fresh herbs and shadowed florals before the drydown settles into incense, smoke and warm wood. With a loyal following and a respected place among enthusiasts, 88 leaves a trail rather than a shout, staying close enough to feel private and distinct through the day.
Cultural impact
Toskovat frames fragrance as a conversation rather than a performance, and 88 fits that disruptive autodidact position. Its appeal lies in the refusal to choose between fresh herbs and dark oud, placing it for wearers who value experimentation, contrast and a scent with its own rules.
The House
The AnarchistToskovat is a Ukrainian independent fragrance house founded by David, a perfumer based in Ukraine. The brand gained attention for its provocative approach to scent creation, producing a collection of distinctive fragrances including Punk, Code Noir, Shaman, Slavic Soul, Venus, 88, and Anarchist A. The house emerged in 2022 and quickly established a presence at major niche fragrance events, including presentations at NOAH and Milan. Toskovat represents a voice from Eastern Europe in the global niche fragrance conversation, bringing a distinct perspective shaped by its Ukrainian origins. The brand operates as a founder-led house, with David serving as both creator and nose behind the collection. Each fragrance in the lineup tells a specific story, often through unexpected note combinations that challenge conventional perfumery expectations.
The Creator
Christian Carbonnel a.k.a. Chris MauriceCarbonnel is at his most distinctive when building rich, layered oriental compositions that unfold over hours on the skin. He favors high-quality natural materials and constructs fragrances with real depth—top notes that sparkle, heart notes that develop, and base notes that a…
