The Story
Why it exists.
The beginning
Saudade debuted in 2018, composed by Emma Jane Leah for Michael Paul Fragrances. Its name points to more than simple nostalgia. The word carries the ache of remembering someone or something whose presence still shapes the room, even when it is gone. That emotional idea gives the fragrance its layered tension. Pomegranate supplies a bright, lucid beginning, its tart fruitiness cut with a cool, clarifying lift that catches attention immediately. As that opening softens, smoke, vanilla, and tobacco create a warmer center, each note folding into the others rather than standing alone. Smoke drifts across the composition like a veil, lending a faint dryness to the sweetness of vanilla, while tobacco deepens both with an earthy, contemplative edge.
The unusual part is the handoff between fruit and smoke. Pomegranate can read sparkling and polished, but here it has somewhere darker to go. Smoke and tobacco pull that initial brightness into a drier, more tactile register, while vanilla rounds the edges without erasing the contrast. Sandalwood gives the final stage a smooth, powdery woodiness. The combination feels layered because each material changes the temperature of the next: crisp fruit, warm smoke, soft sweetness, then dry wood.
The evolution
Saudade begins with a clean burst of pomegranate, sharp enough to pull you closer. As the fruit fades, the composition turns warmer and more familiar. Smoke moves through the middle like haze gathering around a warm light, while tobacco adds a dry, contemplative edge. Vanilla keeps the darker notes from becoming severe, giving them a rounded, almost skin-warm finish. The surprise comes as the fruit disappears completely. What remains is less about brightness and more about texture: mellow smoke, sweet tobacco, and the smooth pull of sandalwood. The opening fruitiness lingers briefly before settling into the denser heart, where smoke and vanilla soften into one another. On skin, the fragrance reads gradually, each stage arriving in turn rather than all at once.
Cultural impact
Saudade was released in 2018, alongside a year that also saw the house launch Joie De Vie and Visionair. The fragrance draws on nostalgia and absence, turning both into something you can wear rather than simply read about. Its opening of pomegranate feels immediate and lucid, giving the composition a clear entry point, while smoke, vanilla, and tobacco build a warmer, more textured heart. Sandalwood closes the arc with a smooth, grounding dryness. The release also reflects the house's unisex orientation, presenting an emotionally charged, layered composition without a strictly gendered framing.
The House
Michael Paul FragrancesMichael Paul Fragrances presents the work of Michael Paul, a magician turned perfumer and founder of Day Three Fragrances. His compositions move through contrasting olfactory territories, from the honeyed softness of Rose + Honey to the polished woods of Jet Black Mahogany and the restrained floral naming of Ktoret 144 Bloom. The catalog spans eau de parfum releases introduced between 2018 and 2024, alongside perfumes shaped by perfumers including Clément Gavarry, Elodie Durande, Frank Voelkl, Hamid Merati-Kashani, Ilias Ermenidis, Roger Howell, and Wessel-Jan Kos. The name Day Three carries personal meaning, tied to Michael Paul's faith and family inspiration, giving the house a distinct origin outside conventional fashion-fragrance storytelling.
The Creator
Emma Jane LeahLeah brings both natural and synthetic materials into her work, drawing on her dual qualification. Her background in commercial industrial perfumery gives her formulas structural integrity, while her natural perfumery training grounds her in traditional craftsmanship.

















